10/14/2019 Evening Fireside Resort Jackson Wy, day 34


Ready to Go!


Dropping Into Grand Teton NP


Like a Wolf in the Sage


Snake River, Grand Teton National Park


No Snow and a Short Walk to Water


We Stood Here Last Year!


Snake River and Grand Teton




What a view descending into Grand Teton National Park.  Mount Moran and the Tetons are magnificent sitting across the Snake River, Jenny Lake, or Jackson Lake. We love Yellowstone.  We love the Tetons.  They are both wonderful in very different ways.  Jackson hole is a flat plain surrounded by mountain ranges.  It is home to elk, prong horns, moose, black bear, wolf, fox, cougar, and any number of smaller mammals.  Ellen is excited to take a bike trail north from Jackson.  It runs for twenty miles and more.

At each bend in the road, we remembered details from last year’s trip:  the outstanding grove of aspen near Coulter Bay; staying at Coulter Bay;  getting up early to catch sunrise at Oxbow Bend; seeing bear on a carcass so far away that our binoculars were useless;  driving to Jackson to purchase a spotting scope; having a fantastic lunch at Café Genevieve on a local’s recommendation; visiting the Mountain Trail’s Gallery and their fantastic art. 

I drove right past the right turn to Coulter Bay Village.  I remembered reading that the campground had closed.  I asked Ellen if she’d like to visit Coulter Bay.  “Sure”.  One U-turn and we drove in to Coulter Bay.  Our first clue, the road to the campground had big signs stating “Road Closed”.   On to the Coulter Bay Visitors Center, the General Store, and the Laundry/Shower facilities.  All were closed.  Not one thing was open at Coulter Bay.

We remembered the approach to Oxbow Bend.  The aspen are typically brilliant yellow at this time of year.  The extreme cold of the past few weeks has turned the aspen leaves a dull brown.  Even so, the landscape is dramatic, even awe inspiring.

The massive sculpture that stood outside of Lewis & Clark was sold.  It sits outside a picture window overlooking the snake river in a custom build house.

As we approached Jackson, we remembered and found RV parking.  We walked toward Café Genevieve for a repeat of last years memorable meal.  At the Mountain Trail’s Gallery, I noticed the massive sculpture of Lewis and Clark paddling a canoe was gone!  We walked on to Café Genevieve.  Unfortunately it was “shut”.  They had a fire and are closed for repairs. 

We both thought then said, “Let’s go back to the Mountain Trail’s Gallery and ask for another recommendation”.  At the gallery the same fellow who walked the gallery with us last year asked, “Can I help you?”  We talked art, life, and driving around Jackson.  Teton Pass on highway 22 west, has 10 percent grades.  Just this year a tandem truck rig smashed through and past the emergency truck stop and disintegrated.  The driver didn’t survive. “Be careful if you take that pass!”  I’m planning on going south on 191 and avoiding that pass.  I’ve read about it.  As for restaurant recommendations, he had three: Local, Trio, and Gather.  We checked out all three and settled on Trio.  Ellen had a massive piece of Alaskan halibut, fried green tomato, and corn and red pepper.  I had their pasta Bolognese.  Both were excellent.

We are now at Jackson Hole Campground which is part of Fireside Resort.  The resort is 5 miles from Jackson Hole Ski Resort on the Moose Wilson Road.  Moose Wilson Road is a great place to see moose.  According to the reservation gals, it’s not unusual to see moose in this RV park.  Even better, this resort rents jeeps.  We can leave Li’l Beast and go moose “hunting” on roads our motor home cannot go!  It’s a bit more than renting a car in Jackson might be, but the convenience may be worth it.



We Found the Cafe


But the sign reads “SHUT”



Whimsical Bears


Alaskan Halibut


Pasta Bolognese


The forecast for Jackson is for increasingly better weather until Friday.  From Friday through the following Monday snow and rain are expected. On Tuesday and Wednesday rain is expected.   Rain in Jackson could easily be snow in higher passes. Do we want to spend five or six days constrained by the weather.  The other option is to remain in Jackson for another two nights and head south on Thursday. Salt Lake City is about 5 hours drive away and is projected to have rain and snow on Sunday.  We should have clear roads south if we leave Thursday.  Weather is changeable and something we will be checking daily.

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