We had too much fun in Grand Teton and Yellowstone to keep track of each day. I’ll summarize and post photos when we’re home. We jump forward to Day 19.
Li’l Beast @ Lewis & Clark Caverns Campground
We walked to the Jefferson River last night. There was no movement in the craggy hills or along the river; there was sign of dog in scat along the trail. Back at Li’l Beast we had a light dinner and enjoyed the amenities of a 30 amp hook-up. No need for concern about battery drain or running the generator. Electric heat and DirecTv played well in “camp”.
The Campsite was Empty in the Morning
This morning outdoor temp held at 40. Inside was 60, cool but comfortable. I feel Yellowstone’s pull. The park is only a few hours drive south east. Yellowstone is getting cold. The open campsites are basic: no electricity, limited drinking water no propane. Li’l Beast’s resources were a concern from time to time. These are minor inconveniences and easily dismissed with water and propane levels above 1/4. The prospect of viewing apex predators in the United States easily outweighs any battery concern (we have our generator) or inconvenience. The park is only a few hours drive south-east. We could go back!
Last night as we settled in to sleep, I heard what I though were dogs walking past. Strange, the two guys camping nearby do not have dogs. Maybe the camp hosts have dogs. At first light this morning I heard yelps and howls in the near distance. At least three coyote were celebrating sunrise. What a wonderful way to greet the day.
In practical terms, returning to Yellowstone now is not feasible. Most camps in the park are closed and the few the were open last week either have closed or are closing in a few days. As much as I’d like to go back, and we still could, it just doesn’t make sense. From time to time I’ll see a sign “Yellowstone” so may miles next left. Steady hands on the wheel. No left turn. I am genuinely surprised how much I loved being in Grand Teton and particularly in Yellowstone. Both are magical places.
Virginia City, J E T S, funky bar tender
A gal at the visitors center recommended we visit Virginia City and Nevada City. Virginia city is the phoenix of the old west. The town has been restored to its old self through the dedication of a few people who kept the town from falling into total disrepair. It could have become what Nevada City is, a ghost town. Instead there are shops that appear to be doing well. Most were closed for the season. One gift shop was open, managed by a grizzled woman with a bubbly personality. “Most shops are closed for the season. The antique shop next door is open and of course the saloon is too” I bought Ambrose’s Undaunted Courage at the gift shop. She had an unusually complete library of books about the old west, all of them for sale.
We couldn’t visit Virginia City without visiting the saloon. The bartender, a tall woman in her late 40’s, was unusual. Her bone structure was striking as if chiseled from stone. Her speech was slow and labored as if finding words was difficult. She was friendly and generous. “What will you have?” “do you have a local IPA on tap”. She said yes and drew a bit of beer in a glass. “Do you like this?” How unusual to have a sample of beer. IT was good and I a pint. Ellen had a vodka on ice. Glancing around I noticed an NFL game on the TV behind us. There was just one TV in the saloon and it was tuned to the Jets Bronco game! Here we were in the old west, in a saloon, watching the Jets demolish the Broncos. It was 4th quarter and the score (which I do not remember) was lopsided. Toward the end of the game with the Broncos threatening to score, a Jets defensive player intercepted the ball in their goal and ran it back to the 1 yard line before being tackled. This player was a defensive back. He was not fast as he ran down the field and he slowed appreciably with every ten yards he ran. You could see he was tiring with Bronco players closing in. Other faster Jets players threw blocks protecting the run. Even so he could not make it to the opposing end zone. That play ended the game for the Broncos. J E TS!
One TV playing NFL Jets vs Cowboys
Enjoying an IPA and “the game”
The Bar @ the Virginia City Saloon
Too funny, the whole weltanshauung. Our bartender said she visited San Francisco when she was in college playing on a woman’s volley ball team.
I do recommend visiting Virginia City if you are passing through. Earlier in the season would be better. More will be open. We didn’t visit boot hill. The shopkeeper said most families in town had their family remains moved from boot hill. They didn’t want their ancestors resting with the outlaws. So boot hill didn’t have that many boots anymore.
With threatening rain, we skipped Nevada City.
Butte KOA, Closing Sunday 10/13
Butte KOA
This campground is not right on the freeway. It is easy to find and convenient. I pulled in behind a motorhome that was adding drinking water from the registration building. Joe, the owner, explained that they had turned site water off for the season. If I needed water, I could use the hose in front. I refilled our water to 2/3. Propane was sitting at 1/2. Eventually we would need propane, but we were good for now. The last time I filled was at Yellowstone’s east entrance. Each time the propane dropped to 3/4 I had filled it thinking propane was critical to our comfort. With Li’l Beast’s 33 Gal. tank there was no need to fill so often. Now I’ll wait until it drops to E before refilling. E when it first shows up indicates a bit less than 1/4 tank of propane. That’s assuming the propane gauge is working.
Our site was unremarkable. It had electricity which is all we needed. The rest rooms were well heated and I took a much needed shower that evening. A heated shower with plenty of hot water was great. We also did a laundry. The outside dish washing station was closed (no running water). I did the dishes in a sink indoors. DirecTv worked. We watched an episode of “Last Week Tonight” before hitting the sack.