Day 20 October 8 2018 Butte to Missoula, Clark Mansion

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Butte KOA

It was trying to rain this morning. The outside thermometer read 38F though it felt bitter cold outside.  I considered taking a shower and decided not to.  The men’s room was poorly heated.  Joe said they were closing down this Sunday the 14th. They had shut off their water.  The campground was practically empty.  Again we took our time getting ready to go knowing it would be a short hop to Missoula.  We wanted to explore Butte some.  Joe recommended a few places in town for a meal.

The Butte KOA is above average for a parking-lot style campground.

Butte

Butte is a small town, made smaller by economic decline.  Many of its shops are boarded up.  The past few decades has not been kind to Butte.  There are a number of remarkable houses a few blocks off the main street.

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The Clark Mansion

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Now a Bed and Breakfast In Season

Senator Clark

One of our touristy brochures suggested visiting the Clark Mansion.  We dialed Clark Mansion’s address into our Rand McNally GPS and headed into Butte.  GPS took us right to the front door and a sign that read in part “Winter Hours: Tours By Appointment Only” with a telephone number.  A group of people were milling about the front door then left.  I thought “why not call” and dialed the number.  A woman answered and said a tour was starting in fifteen minutes, would we be interested in joining?  Sure, sign us up!  She let us in and had us wait in the foyer until the other guests arrived.  The tour was a modest $5 per person.

TJ, the woman who let us in, also gave the tour.  She was a fountain of information, more like a fire-hose.  Names, dates, relationships, births, deaths, a sea of information washed over us.  It was difficult to keep track without a score card.  Clark became wealthy when the gold and silver mines he owned failed, but he recognized the need for copper for the telegraph industry.  The failed mines were rich in copper.  With his wealth he build mansions around the U.S. and in Paris.  The mansion he had built on Park Avenue across from Central Park was demolished decades ago.  His mansion in Butte is privately owned with all but part of the third floor open to tours.

What is fascinating about the mansions is the use of state of the art technology throughout. All the lights could be run on either gas or electricity.  The electric lights pointed downward, the gas lamps opened upward.  The house was forced air heated, extremely modern for the day.  It took builders four years to complete the 18,000 square foot mansion. 

 

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All the Lights Were Powered by Both Electricity and Gas

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This Full Immersion Shower is Available to Guests

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The Doll Collection is Intact

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And it is Extensive

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As is the Penguin Collection

Given the fire-hose level of information, I retained very little.  Clark ran for senator though he was tainted by a corruption scandal.  He later became Senator by appointment (I think), but held the seat for six years and didn’t run again.  He build homes in San Francisco, Paris, New York, and Butte for his family.  The worst mining disaster in the U.S. took place at his mine when a minor’s candle caught a kerosene soaked rope afire and killed a number (161?) of miners.  We were told that Clark mourned with the miner’s families and curtailed all parties and celebrations for some time after the disaster.  None of the other wealthy in town did likewise. 

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I was tempted to purchase a book about Clark, he was an unusual man for his time.  I did purchase a book about Yellowstone’s geology and one about Lewis and Clark’s surveying adventure.  I wonder if the two Clarks are related.

Uptown Café

TJ recommended a restaurant in downtown Butte that is run by the owner of the mansion. Today is Columbus Day.  All federal buildings are closed.  So were most of the downtown shops! The restaurant TJ recommended was closed.  Joe, the owner at KOA, recommended Uptown Café.  It was open.  The enchilada filling was good but couldn’t make up for the soggy tortilla wrap.  It was just barely ok.  We arrived just before lunch closed out which might explain the sogginess.  Otherwise, the service, restaurant, and price was good.  I’d be willing to try it again; after trying TJ’s suggestion when we’re back in town.

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Leaving Butte for Missoula

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On the Road to Missoula

Missoula Montana

The road from Butte to Missoula follows rivers and winds over a few passes.  I remember crossing the “Clark Fork” numerous times. The Missoula KOA is a large campground with cabins, showers, full hookups, and a few pet rabbits.  The campground is off the highway; there is little road noise after hours.  It is right off a main street with shopping and restaurants close by.

 

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Missoula KOA Campground

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One of the Pet Rabbits

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