Category Archives: Travel Resources

10/21/15 Prime Motors, Portland; Lake Winnipesaukee; Meredith Maine

Prime Mercedes, Portland Maine

Unlike most mornings, we awoke late today.  I had no time to complete yesterday’s blog entry.  With no morning coffee, off we went to Prime Mercedes.  Dueling GPS units guided us and we arrived at Prime Mercedes a few minutes ahead of time.  Driving toward the service entrance, Vassili motioned us to stop, not frantically but with an air of certainty, a “You Will Stop” kind of thing.  I had planned to stop, had we driven through we would have one of a very few convertible Winnebagos

Mohammed, our service rep., expected us.  We joked about cross country travel, then focused on our Sprinter RV.  It would take about two hours for service if they didn’t find anything amiss. Prime would fill all the fluids, change the oil and oil filter, and perform a software update to address an annoying gong that sometimes triggers at start-up for no reason.  He said it’s a known problem with a software fix.   Prime also sells Sprinter RVs, specializing in the Airstream.  There were two RVs parked outside and we had to check ’em out.  The larger Airstream was locked, but the Road Trek was open.  It was well setup, but short, and even with windows on all sides it was dark inside with a full wood interior. It was priced at $87K.

Lois’ Natural Market, Scarborough NH

Heading back into the waiting lounge, I opened the door for a well dressed woman who overheard Ellen wonder where we’d find a good restaurant for breakfast or lunch.  She turned and said, “Lois’ Natural Marketplace is a great place to eat.  They’re “all natural”, but pricey.”  We thanked her, and headed across the street to Lois’ place.

Lois’ looks like a market.  The front doors open onto rows of produce and products as you would see in any typical small up-scale market.  I walked past thinking the cafe would be around back in another building.  Ellen disappeared into the shop.  Recognizing my mistake, I walked past the rows of exotic beers, organic produce, and herbal remedies to find Ellen standing at a deli counter.  Lois’ makes everything they sell at the deli pretty much from scratch.  Arrayed under glass were heaping bowls of pasta salad with spinach and goat cheese, diced beets with spices, home-made soups, baked goods like the coconut-strawberry or blueberry scones (We both said “Michele” our friend living on Whidbey Island, Washington state; she has a small business baking, yummy scones,cookies, etc…  “Hi Michele and Jerry” 🙂 ).  Hand written in chalk above the counter was their menu, a list of yummy sounding sandwiches.  We each had our morning espresso drink and sandwiches.  Ellen’s was an egg salad and mine, a ham and brie.  These were very delicious.  Usually the ham in a ham and cheese predominates.  Not so with this one.  There were thick slices of brie which dominated the ham, but in a wonderfully different way.  There was a trace of something sweet; small slices of something like date or marinated onion.

Before our sandwiches were made, The owner and Ellen chatted about travel.  I noticed Grgich Hills Chardonnay on their wine shelf and had to look over their wines.  Sitting atop a display case front and center were three bottles of Historic Series Madeira:  Baltimore Rainwater, Boston Bual, and Thomas Jefferson.  I asked Lois about the wines and she hailed their wine buyer.  The Historic Series Madeira is made in the traditional way in estufas.  What makes the Jefferson special is the blend.  This wine includes some 80 year old madiera.  Ok, I was hooked.  I thought I’d get a bottle and one or two of the unusual beers they carry.

More reading about Historic Series Madeira

Meanwhile Ellen was talking music with Lois.  Her husband plays in a rock-a-billy threesome who travel around.  I mentioned The Stray Cats as what I think of as rock-a-billy.  Lois said,, “yes, but heading more toward blue-grass. Oh well…

Our sandwiches arrived and were gobbled up with joy.  We cruised the isles one last time, then crossed back over Rt 1 to Prime.  The Beast was no longer in sight.  This time the lounge was nearly empty, the young well dress woman who told us about Lois’ was at the cashier’s counter, and there was a Smart Car sitting at the far end of the lounge, in a hall leading into the show room. Time for a test drive!

Smart Cars and Airstreams

A well dressed salesman was having an animated conversation with a customer.   Not wanting to interrupt I walked past, but the salesman stopped me to ask, “Can I help You?”.  “Yes, I would like to test drive a Smart Car, but I don’t want to interrupt your conversation.:  To which Art Starr, the salesman, said, “Oh that’s ok, I sold Andy an Airstream in August.  We’re just talking.  Let me get someone to give you a test drive.  Are you interested in buying today? ”  I said no not today, but I would like to see if I like the ride and might buy one in the future.”   “Ok”.

Moments later Art introduced Jerry Lynde and keys in hand off we went to find a turbo-charged 2016 Smart Car with a manual transmission,  Knowing it’s a two seat model, Ellen chose not to take part.  All of the small cars I’ve driven feel like a sardine can with wheels; they do not feel like cars.  The Smart Car is different.  It does drive and handle surprisingly well.  It is nimble.  Fast is not a word to couple with “Smart Car”.  Even with a turbo it cranks out an anemic 100 hp. That’s fine with me.  As a four down tow vehicle, the Smart Car seems perfect.  I liked it!  Unfortunately it was the 2016/manual transmission/turbo model which is their top of the line and makes buying an inexpensive 2010 model less likely.

The Beast was parked right in front when we walked back.  Best of all it had been WASHED! Gone was the dried on salt from our drive on the Kancamagus Highway.  Jerry and I were talking in the hallway when Art walked up to ask how I liked it, followed by Ellen who asked if she could see inside the Airstream out front.  Art said, “sure I’ll get the keys”  Jerry and I parted and Andy walked up to discuss RVing, living, tow vehicles, and share experiences.  Then Art came back with the keys and said, “Ok, let’s do this”.  With Ellen in tow, he headed outside as I said, “Take my wife, Please!”.  We all had a chuckle.  I really did not want to see inside the Airstream.  I was absolutely sure it was gorgeously appointed and priced accordingly.  Andy and I continued our conversation and eventually Ellen and Art came back.  Kidding I said, “I can see we’ll return to CA with a new RV.  We can just swap our stuff over and continue on.”  We joked about it for a while, but it was clear to all that we were not interested in buying, just in comparing our Winnie with the Airstream.  Ellen was impressed with the leather and marine quality wood interior.  It was beautiful.  Art pulled out a brochure to show us another model’s layout.  We all said our goodbyes.

AllStays and our Winnie Saleswoman

As we were starting off, Andy came out to ask what we use to research campsites.  we told him about our experience with AllStays.  That I loaded six campground applications on my iPhone before we left and that after a week AllStays was the clear winner.  We rarely used any of the others.  Then Ellen asked if Andy would like to see inside The Beast.  She explained how Li’l Beast got his name.  Ellen, in Winnebago sales gal mode, was in her element.  Art climbed in and liked the sense of space we have in The Beast.  His, being a Mercedes Airstream, has a much posher interior.  Ours has much more living space.  There are trade-offs, pluses and minuses, and points of no compromise in everything, RVs are no different.  The $160,000 price tag for the Airstream is a show-stopper for me (for now,, Ellen liked it…  )

Prime Mercedes, Scarborough New Hampshire (again)

Time flew, our two hour appointment had come and gone without our being aware of time passing.  As service experiences go, this was one for the record books: Great people and a job well done.

 

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Steamer Shack Winnipesaukee, CLOSED

 

Lake Winnipesaukee, New Hampshire

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We started heading south, me thinking we’d head to Hampton Beach, when Ellen blurted, “But we haven’t seen a moose!”  We have not.   And she added, “you wanted to see Winnipesaukee.”  True.  We adjusted our plans and headed to Laconia, New Hampshire.  On the way we stopped to locate a campground close to Gunstock Mountain.

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We drove all the way to the Gunstock Ski area without finding the campground.  The views on the way up the mountain were well worth the drive.  The Gunstock Mountain Zip Line is open on the weekends, another score!  Awe Shucks, we’ll have to dally around Lake Winnipesaukee for a few days?

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Our first sight of Lake Winnipesaukee was from a bridge over the very southern part of the lake.  There was a turnout a half mile further up and we stopped to soak in the beauty.  The sky was overcast; with the sun poking through time to time.  Ellen headed off along the lake as I took some long shots across the lake.

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A bit later I saw her standing on a pier with two other couples lost in conversation.  After taking a short walk further up the lake, I went back to meet Pat and Bob and Pauline and Bob, P2B2.   Pat and Bob moved to the bay area from Massachusetts 26 years ago and had moved back to New Hampshire a few months ago.  We chatted about the East Coast and West Coast and I joked that we could wind up moving here.  The trouble is, this is not really a joke for me.  I really like the lakes, forests, rolling hills, and (short) mountains of Vermont and New Hampshire.  I could learn to hibernate in the winter.  (Ellen Here; “don’t think that is going to happen, but  I love visiting during autumn 🙂 )

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Lake Winnipesaukee is breathtaking.  It is huge with a vast number of inlets and bays and a favorite place for people from large cities in Massachusetts to vacation and own vacation homes.

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Laconia, the Landmark Inn, O’s, and Steamers

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We drove on to Laconia, which was a bit of a disappointment for us.  It could be that we didn’t find “happening Laconia”.  It felt like a depressed town with very little life.  We had trouble finding parking.  Our first choice was excellent, but as we walked toward town we passed a “No Parking Cars will be Towed at Owner’s Expense” sign.  My first thought was, “Sure, tow a 6 Ton RV!”  My second was more rational, geez we could be towed and we’re parking behind an urgent care facility.  We moved The Beast.

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We found parking in the lower lot of  the Landmark Inn.  We are both hungry for a large bucket of steamed clams.  The Lobster Shack in Portland did not have them.  We passed numerous shops and shacks with signs screaming “Steamers”  near another sign saying “CLOSED”.  Ok, the concierge at the Landmark should know where we can find some steamers, right?   We asked and were told that O’s just down the road five miles was a superb local restaurant that serves steamed clams.  We also asked about parking in the lower lot and being towed.  The front desk does the towing, we’ll be OK parked there.

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We Found “The Grail”

Great, we walked Laconia with waning enthusiasm then were off in search of O’s.  There were signs for Laconia’s pumpkin festival this weekend.  We’re going to stay a few days on Winnipesaukee, we might check out Laconia’s Pumpkin Festival.  It might just redeem Laconia.

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The Belknap Mill,Laconia New Hampshire

We drove the five miles and found a 99 restaurant.  This was definitely NOT the place for steamers and was one step above fast food.  (Sorry 99)  By now we were not sure of the restaurant’s name; Ellen thought they said O’s. I called the Landmark and was reminded that the restaurant is “O’s”.  I then found a listing for O’s, called them, and learned that they do not serve steamed clams.   This was a bust.

The Keen Pumpkin Festival Moved

An update on Laconia and the pumpkin festival.  The Festival had been held in Keen NH for years, but it was moved this year to Laconia.  Another competing festival will be held Swanzey.  How Strange.  Here’s some background on the Pumpkin Festival.

Meredith Woods, Year Round Camping near Winnipesaukee

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Somehow it fell to me to find a campground.  I found one close-by and called.  A live person answered!  I said, “Hi.  Great a live person.”  She said, “Yes” and laughed merrily.  I then said, “That probably means you are open, am I right?”  She said, “No” and chuckled.  Then she said, “but there is a year round campground not far from us.  Try Meredith Woods.”  I rang off, found Meredith Woods on AllStays, Ellen called, and we had our campground for the evening.  The GPS miss-locates the Meredith Woods Campground.  We passed it, turned around and passed it again.  I pulled off to turn around and a black jeep followed me off the road.  Great, that’ll make turning around difficult, I thought.  The jeep pulled up aside The Beast, a fellow got out and said, “You’re looking for Meredith Woods, aren’t you?”  “Yes”, I said.  He said, “It’s not located correctly on our GPS either.  It is up the road the way you were headed, just right at the blinking yellow light”.   With many thank you’s off we went.  There was a huge sign for Meredith Woods facing us as we approached the blinking light.  Coming from the other direction, the sign is hidden from view. We were “home” for the evening.

Logan welcomed us, we registered, and could back into site #219.  We have full everything tonight.  It’s worry free as compared to boondocking.  Even better, Meredith Woods is open year round and has an indoor heated swimming pool and Jacuzzi, heated restrooms with showers, a rec. room with a pool table, old time jukebox, games, books, and a patio overlooking the pool.  All indoors and all heated.   The campground with its heavily wooded campsites is very appealing.

For dinner Ellen heated the pasta salad, diced beets, and scones we bought at Lois’ Natural Kitchen earlier today.  I enjoyed a Shipyard IPA or two, saving the special beers from Lois’ for later in the week.

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Ellen with our Cog Moose

 

Our Second Issue with The Beast

The Beast has developed a hot water pressure problem.  It looks to be a valve just inside the water inlet that may have been damaged during the freeze we had in New Hampshire.  I had hoped that the light in the basement water compartment would generate enough heat to avoid freezing.  I’ll have to either swap out the diode lite for a 40 watt light, or wire in a separate light circuit.  That’s the only issue we had with sub freezing temperatures over a twelve hour period. It’s the first time I used the gray and black tank heater.  James, a repair guy, will drop by this afternoon to fix the problem if he can.  He diagnosed it over the telephone.  Apparently it is a common failure.  James comes highly recommended by Logan @ Meredith Woods.

Stairs that fail to extend is our first problem.  It appears that opening the side door and closing it before the motor has fully extended the stairs causes the problem.  With the door closed, the stairs retract as you’d expect.  Sometimes they stay retracted.  Opening or closing the door makes no difference, the stairs won’t budge.  A fellow at Camping World mentioned that this is a common failure for all RVs.  He simply tapped the stair motor with a hammer a few times and the stairs came back to life.  Since I’ve been using our trusty rubber mallet to coax the motor to life.  I never have a problem with the stairs unless we open and close the doors rapidly.

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The Flume, Franconia Notch, New Hampshire

Today was another, simply amazing day (10/16/15)

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the Flume, F

It was raining this morning.  It was a light rain, more a drizzle, but it was wet, cold, and overcast. Perfect weather for photography and hiking?  No.  Still, we drove north from Country Bumpkins Campground toward Franconia to check the area out and drive through some of the local towns.  Going north we saw the turn-out for The Flume ahead and I turned in.  I remember visiting this landmark with mom and dad when I was barely a teenager.  I figured we could visit the information center, get some info, and continue north.

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The information center has changed!  Not only is it the entry to the state park, but it has a souvenir shop AND a restaurant!  It is much more developed than I remember fifty years ago.  It was still raining and/or spitting when we entered the information center.  We looked around some then went to the information desk.  Ellen asked a disarming question, not your typical how long how far sort of thing, and we immediately had rapport.  Ellen asked about tomorrow’s weather and it did not look good.  Today was the better day to walk The Flume.

We went back to The Beast and changed for rain.  While we were changing, the sun popped out from behind a cloud.  Great! We headed in to buy tickets.  We delayed taking photos out front and delayed sufficiently for a bus load of “tourists” to head in behind us.  Now don’t get me wrong, we are all “tourists”, it’s just that I hate being trapped in a sea of people disgorged from a bus.  There can be fifty or a hundred people milling about.  It makes photography challenging.

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After we got our tickets we filed to the entrance to the 2 mile walk along with the bus load just as a torrent of rain fell.  The bus load waited under the eves, we pushed past as the rain diminished and started our walk.

If you are visiting the Franconia Notch area, visit The Flume.  It is exhilarating to be out doors and walking.  If you enjoy photography, the contract between shadow and sunlight makes for challenging photography, and the flume is an amazing geological formation.

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We dawdled at the first covered bridge long enough for “the hoard” to catch up.  We continued to dawdle and never saw them again.  The two mile walk typically takes an hour.  It took us 2 1/2-3 hours as we enjoyed our walk through forest then along a gorge and by a waterfall.  About half way through our walk the rain subsided and the sun poked through the clouds.   What joy! We took our time meandering through the park and soaking in the streaming sunshine.

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We were told it would take about an hour to walk the Flume.  It took us a bit over four hours.  We walked, talked, explored Ellen’s camera features, and had a blast.  It was past four pm when we arrived at the gift shop/restaurant for a hot dog.  They were just ok.  The ones at the cog railway are much better.  We stopped by the gift shop and saw the same balsam sachets that were available at the top of Mt Washington.  I considered getting one there, but the price was pretty high.  On the way down the cog, I regretted my decision.  The scent of balsam is so Christmasie. There they were and we took one away with us.  It sits beside me now filling The Beast with the scent of fall and Christmas.  It is wonderful.DSC06523

As we were walking out we met Carl and Olivia coming in.  They’re the Surrey couple we had met at Country Bumpkins.  They went to Echo Lake before heading here.  I asked if there was an echo and Carl admitted they didn’t want to make a spectacle of themselves and had not tried.

We went looking for the towns of Franconia, Lincoln, and Woodstock.  Though the towns were founded in the 1700’s, none are particularly memorable.  There is an Iron works in Franconia that is noteworthy, though the town lacks the charm of Littleton or the industry of St Johnsburg. We went back to our campsite at Country Bumpkins.

Country Bumpkin Campground

I highly recommend stopping at Country Bumpkins if you are looking for a campsite in Lincoln New Hampshire.  This is our second evening here.  We changed sites as the one we were at is reserved for this evening.  At our new site, we have a good view to the south for sat reception, but the electric box and the water spigot are about thirty five feet apart!  We have the hose and electric cable to make this happen.  Still it is a strange setup.  After connecting and checking level, I fired up the Winegard Sat Antenna.  IT buzzed and whirred for a very long time before settling on the satellites.  OK.  The DirecTV receiver saw a problem connecting to the antenna. There was a small tree directly in the path the antenna had selected for sat reception.  No Problem.  I’ll just pull back about a foot and that should move the tree out of the way.  Trouble is, we had very little slack in the water hose.  Backing up a foot is possible, but not two feet.   With Ellen’s help, we backed up a foot and sat reception is all good.

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This evening we  took  long showers, luxurious shower at the campsite.  There are only four showers, 2 men’s and 2 women’s.  They have those old dorm shower heads that are usually not so good, but with the water pressure they have, it was great.  Also their internet access is quite fast.  At other campsites I’ve seen transfer rates as low as 180 Kbps.  At Country Bumpkin bursts of 2.4 Mbps are not unusual.

Tomorrow we may head off on a side-trip to meet with Walt.  Walt lives in Lebanon NH.  We’ll chose someplace roughly mid-way and spend a day before heading east to Conway NH.  We have a rendezvous with a zip line on the way.

If I have not mentioned it before, Ellen is getting to know her new camera.  At least half of the photos posted on our blog since we left for New England are her’s.  I’m encouraging her to use manual to learn how to handle difficult light situations where auto just cannot cut-it.  Her camera has so many modes and options that it will take some time to be comfortable with all its features.

 

The Cog Railroad, Mt Washington, New Hampshire

 

The Cog Railroad on a Clear Day

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If you are in the Mt Washington State Park in New Hampshire, you would do well to take a ride on the Cog Railway to the top of Mt Washington.  Do this on a clear day, and you will be rewarded with some of the most magnificent vistas east of the Mississippi.  Be warned Mt Washington creates its own weather.  It may be warm at the base station and it could be snowing on top.  Today it was 54 degrees in the sun at base and with wind chill, -11 degrees at the top!

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The Cog Steam Engine Returns from the Top of Mt Washington

Each day one steam driven train sets out at 9:15 am.  The remaining trains are all bio-diesel. The steam train was booked for today, 10/15.   We figured the other trains couldn’t be booked, it was after Columbus Day after all.  We left at a comfortable time this morning, around 9:30, which is early for us.

Ammonoosuc Camground

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We drove the 12 miles from Ammonoosuc Campgrounds to the cog base station.  The base station road runs east from 302.  We had been warned that some GPS units will route you to the wrong side of Mt Washington!  We saw practically no other vehicle on our drive to the station.  Parking was easy, though I was surprised at the number of cars.  We parked in the third lot down from upper parking!  At the ticket office we were told, “I can get you on the 2:30 train.”  ???  It was 10:10 am.  The Cog Railway was BUSY!  The gal said, “Oh wait, I can get you two on the 12:30, be at platform A at 12:00”.   Now I would recommend ordering tickets ahead of time on-line.  The Cog Railway:  more information

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The Original Steam Engine

Two hours can make a huge difference.  At 10 am the skies were clear, it was cold in the shade with a bit of a breeze at the base.   The weather in the presidential range is notorious, it can change drastically in a few hours.  The world recorded wind speed of 253 MPH was set in 2010 on the top of Mt Washington.  The mountain creates its own weather.

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Climbing Mt Washington, the Presidential Range New Hampshire

Mt Washington’s cog railway is the first one built in the world. It runs from the base at 2100 feet to the top at 6288 feet.  It has an average grade of 25% with a maximum of 37.4%.  It was first operational in 1868 and has been in constant operation since, but with regularly upgraded equipment.    still more information

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Looking Back

 

We explored the train station, walked around outside, and had lunch at the restaurant.  In the museum we saw a very interesting video loop describing the history of the railway and the technology.  Delayed, we were far back in the embarkation line and sat toward the back of the single car.  There are no bad seats, though the seats at the front of the car both ascending and descending are the best.  The car brakeman, Andrew, regaled us with stories and jokes about the railway, the car’s design, the tracks, and sights we passed.  He mentioned that New Hampshire’s famous “the Old Man in the Mountain”  collapsed.  His name was changed to “Cliff”.   see this composite image

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The ride to the top goes quickly. It does not feel like an hour ride.  About half way up the tracks double up and up and down bound trains pass each other.   The air temperature grows much colder nearer the top and the wind picks up on the ridge.

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When we left the base it was 54 degrees.  At the top the temp was -11 with wind chill.  It was cold.   The warming hut I thought I remembered from 40 years ago, is no more.  Perhaps I’m remembering the Tip Top Hut.  Today there is a large warm building that houses a restaurant, a gift shop, and a hiker’s information desk.  We headed inside right away waiting for the crowd outside to disperse; some boarding the trains back down the mountain, others milling about until the cold got the better of them.  In a short time we went back outside to explore in relative peace.

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We saw a glider decouple from its plane and soar below us.  We marveled at the vista of fall colors.  The trees to the north were past peak while the trees to the south looked to be peaking.  There was significantly more red color to the south.

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The Tip Top House

 

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Inside the Tip Top House

 

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We were freezing.  We popped into a small hut to warm up and found ourselves in a small souvenir nut.  The scent of pine filled the hut.  Ellen found a sweat shirt she liked and I came very close to buying a balsam pillow.  Once we warmed up, we headed back to the main building for cocoa and apple cider.  The hiker’s desk was not busy.  I asked about Tuckerman’s Ravine and we were off.  Kevin and I discussed Tuckerman’s, skiing Mt Washington, the east coast, Tahoe, new skis designs, snow quality.  We had a great time until we noticed the queue for the train down the mountain.  This time we were at the end of the line and were separated on the ride down.  It was no problem, Ellen sat behind me and often warmed my ears.  There really is no bad seat on the car.  The views on the way down were stellar.  The skies were clear, though we had seen clouds blowing past the mountain top.

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Descending, can you find Ellen?

We thawed out at the bottom, both agreeing that this day was “awesome”.  Remembering the chili the restaurant served for lunch, we visited the base station restaurant to find gaping holes in the counter where the soup and chili pots had been.  No Problem, the counter guy said, we have lots.  We bought two pints to heat for dinner later.  Next, in the gift shop I mentioned in an off hand way that I’d like to see a moose in the flesh.  A local standing beside me told me where I might find some Moose, their habits, and Ellen mentioned the declining moose population caused by ticks.  We were off on a wide ranging discussion about: climate change, life style, ticks (his dog never had an issue with ticks until three years ago, now he sees deer ticks all the time, some moose have over a thousand ticks on them and they’re anemic) and population growth as the cause of “it all”.  People have the time to stop and engage in conversation here.  Is it just New York and New England?  I’ll pay closer attention as we work our way back west in four or six weeks.

We headed toward Franconia Notch thinking we could get south of the notch and setup camp before nightfall.   On the way we stopped at a road-side outlook.

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There are a number of campsites in and around the notch and more than a few to the north and south.  We settled on “Country Bumpkins” in Lincoln.  They are open through the end of October (the owner said; not really, they close next week).  They have a variety of options for hookups from full to electric only, they have WiFi, and cable.

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Setting up camp is usually as simple as pushing an electric plug into a socket, screwing a water filter into a spigot, quick-connecting our water hose to the filter and to the RV, and pushing out the slide-out.  In warmer weather we might pull out an outdoor mat, chairs, and a BBQ and unfurl the awning, but when it’s cold less is more.  In the cold we are quickly mobile; breaking camp can be done in a flash.

As usual, we drove past the campsite, turned around, and checked in.  There was a couple from England ahead of us.  Carl and his GF flew from Surrey to Boston and rented an RV for two weeks to tour New Hampshire and Massachusetts.   We had a good time talking about our trips, his work (an architect), and the future.  Carl was fascinated to think that he could just drop everything and be an RV nomad full time.  He’s been bitten by the romance of the open road and the beauty of New England in the fall.

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We’re now snug in The Beast, the heater is workin’ away,

 

Up the next morning to the patter of light rain.  It’s overcast but not raining now.  We’ll stay another day at Country Bumpkin Campground.  The site we were at last night, #38, is taken tonight.  Amy wrote out a list of available sites, we walked the campground and chose #26.  26 has a clear view to the south.

Amy is a warm caring woman.  She’s fun and it is easy to while away half an hour simply chatting with her.  Amy’s warmth extends to the campground.  It is nestled in a small wooded valley with a creek flowing through the campground that flows into a river.  They have Country Bumpkin photo walls.  You know the type, a painting of two or three people with oval head cut-outs.  You put your head in the oval and you’ve got your very own country bumpkin photo.  The campground office closes at 9 pm; quite late for an RV campground. The campground is closing for the year this Sunday, 10/18, with no overnight camping on Sunday.  Campground availability is closing down.

Amy said she and her family stay year-round.  She starts taking reservations for 2016 in January.

Today we’ll visit the towns of Franconia, Lincoln and Woodstock, maybe take the walk to The Flume weather permitting.

 

Smuggler’s Notch, Vermont

What a wonderful three days.

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It started slowly, with an unfulfilled promise of good weather.  It was 35 deg last night and overcast mid-morning.  We felt no urgency in getting moving. Morning cappuccino was great, some local news featuring presidential candidates was amusing, and we finished working on our blog for the day.  We set off late as usual, thinking today would be a bust.  With overcast skies and flat light, photography was out.  We had hoped to take the gondola to the top of Mt Mansfield, but with the weather and cold we decided not to.

Morrisville, Vermont

We turned onto the business loop through Morrisville from SR 100 and just had to stop for photos.  In the hour we spend waking fields to find that “perfect shot”,  the sun started to peak out and some of the overcast burned off.  When we got back in “the Beast” it was clear, we’d continue on to the gondola for a “look see”.

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Stowe, Vermont

I forgot to take the spur that avoids “downtown” Stowe.  We wasted about twenty minutes creeping through town, and enjoying the sites, before we turned right onto SR 108 and resumed a normal clip of 40 mph.  By now the weather was warming and the sun was on and off as clouds drifted by overhead.

 

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Climbing toward the notch, we saw signs for the “Scenic Toll Road”.  We both though that would be cool and we took the turnoff to the left for the toll road.   We were greeted by a footman who explained that the road was extremely narrow and curvy and that we could not make it up the road with “this traffic”.  Not wanting to be crass nor wanting to find myself in an untenable situation, I agreed that it would be best not to take the “Scenic Route”.  We turned around (an accomplishment in itself) and continued up SR 108.

Seinic Toll Road, Smuggler’s Notchch

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Sometime later we saw gondolas running overhead and turned right toward their source.  WRONG.  We turned into the Stowe Mountain Resort, a posh inn with valet parking and their own gondola to the base of Mt Mansfield.  I wondered if anyone thought we’d valet park “the Beast”.  Again we were back on SR 108, but this time we simply drove through the circular dive.

The third time is the charm.  The next entryway to the left from Stowe Mountain Resort is the entrance to Mt Mansfield’s gondola and is the main entrance to the ski resort in-season.  The entry way faces the gondola lift to the top of the mountain.  Again we were greeted by a footman who asked if we were her for the gondola ride.  “Yes”, we answered and we were told that the gondola had failed and was not in operation.  The diesel generator was running the gondolas at slow speed to bring passengers down the mountain.  Nobody was going up.  We saw groups walking down the mountain.  Strike Two!

We made the most of it.  We walked the lower ski slopes and took some “OK” photos.

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We continued up SR 108 toward the notch.  Some time later we saw two granite cliffs facing each other.  This is “the notch”.  SR 108 runs up between these two escarpments.  A short time after we had our first dramatic view of the notch, a glaring flashing sign notified us that no trailers are allowed beyond this point.   Well, we are not a trailer so we’re good to go.  On we went.  The road continued upwards with a 40 mps speed limit, that decreased to 30, and then lower.  The road narrowed, became extremely twisty, with the added joy of parked cars lining both sides of the street, some not entirely off the street.   There were more than a few places where two cars could not pass, one had to wait for the other to go.  The Beast is narrow for an RV and could easily negotiate the road, but it was a challenge with other drivers on the road.  In two instances I near panicked as oncoming drivers apparently did not now where the side of their car was.  More than a few couples walking the roadside watched me pass with a dumbfounded look.  Ours was the only RV I saw today past the “no trailers allowed” sign.   The Smuggler’s Notch drive is not to be taken lightly.  There are more than a few places where the road is a single lane hair-pin steep up-hill 180 degree turn.   An inattentive or inadequate driver would be disastrous on this road as would an over-confident driver of an 18 wheeler.

As we approached the pass, it became clear that we would not find a place to park along the road or in the small trail head parking at the top.  We continued past the pass and down into the next valley.  The road was steep, I selected a low gear using the brakes as little as I could.  Cars backed up behind.  I selected a turnout to stop and let them by.  This was not a scenic overlook, but a small turnout.  Surprisingly, the SUV immediately behind me turned in with me.  After about a dozen cars passed by, my follower turned out too and I followed.  No less than 200 feet down the road, there was a dirt road to the right and I took it.  My thought was, maybe this road opens onto great views.  It was the entrance into parking lot 1 for the Smuggler’s Notch Ski resort.

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The parking lot was heavily rutted and slow going all the way in, but the views were spectacular. There was a standing map of ski routes ahead of us, a yurt to our right, and ski runs heading up-mountain to our right.  We disembarked and separated camera in hand.  While I was orienting myself, two woman hiked down a ski trail and into the parking lot.  We exchanged “Hi’s”, and talked about hiking up-mountain.  I had not gone far from Li’l Beast and one of the woman noticed our CA license plates and putting it together asked, “Are you from California?” That started another conversation about how beautiful Vermont is and what California is like.  With their encouragement, Ellen and I headed up the ski trails in search of dramatic views.  There were many.

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It was late and we allowed ourselves 30 minutes to hike up-hill before turning back.  The slope we walked was heavy with moisture.  There were running streams and mud in some areas, firm ground in others.  It was steep and slow going, but rewarding.  I can only imagine what skiing would be like on these slopes.  With the densely packed trees, tree-skiing would be out of the question here.  It is amazing how slow we walk and how fast we can ski downhill.  We returned to the Beast comfortably exhausted and happy to have left the crowds and found a peaceful retreat of our own.

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I considered driving further down to the valley and trying to find a way to Morristown, but Ellen had talked to a woman in the parking lot who said there was no quick way around the mountains to get back to Morristown.  The best way was back through the notch!  Back through the notch we went.  Traffic was less severe, though there were a few cars parked half way off the road making progress challenging.  On one hair-pin turn I had to stop and wait for a long string of cars and motorcycles to pass before the path around the rocky outcropping was safe to turn past.  A low gear by itself was insufficient, I had to brake repeatedly to be safe on the descent trading off brake wear and heat with engine braking when I could.   It was fun for me and other drivers were not a problem in this direction.

 

We returned to the valley hungry.  Should we head back to the Mountain View Campground and cook, or find something to eat “in town”.  In town won out.  I remembered the woman at the campground’s desk had recommended McCarthy’s Restaurant and remembered driving past it on the way out.  Off we went to find that the restaurant is open from 6:30 Am to 2:00 Pm serving breakfast and lunch only.  That didn’t work.  We discussed what we would like to eat and kept coming back to sushi or Thai.  The nearest Thai restaurant is in Montpelier, not happening.   We remembered passing Sushi Yoshi on the way out and back.  It was a sushi and Chinese restaurant, a strange mix.  I thought we’d be risking it, going for sushi in Vermont, but we did.

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We chose to sit at the sushi bar, we were the only ones at the bar.  Talking with the sushi chefs, I tried to order Hamachi Sashimi, but they looked dumbly at me.  Yellow Tail sashimi they understood and we settled on two orders of  Hamachi, two spicy tuna rolls, a lobster roll, a unagi hand roll for Ellen, and avocado salad.  All were amazing and some of the best sushi I’ve had.  The lobster roll was very good, though the delicate flavor of the lobster got lost in the other flavors.  There are six reviews for Sushi Yoshi online, some of them two star.   My experience was so different that I wonder what the “two star” people ordered.   The sushi and sashimi were fresh, excellently prepared, and scrumptious (if you like sushi).

Sushi Yoshi’s Website

Again we returned to Mountain View Campground well after sunset.  It’s no problem setting up the water and electric connections.  Tonight we’ll forego the sewer line.  We setup, hoisted the Winegard antenna, turned on the local HD antenna, downloaded our video and photos, and settled in.  I played guitar for a while as Ellen looked over today’s photos.  Then as I looked over mine,  Ellen grabbed my throw while watching a TV show, leaving me with a crummy blanket.  We have been looking for comfortable throws that don’t shed lint or fabric for a while now.  I found one I liked last week; Ellen is still looking.  It was surprising to see Ellen wrapped in MY throw.  Bummer, but I’m happy she’s happy.  We’ll have to find a throw for her, and soon.

Tonight we watched the season opener of “the Good Wife” in off-air HD, and now “Homeland” on direcTv.

New England Foliage Trip, Mirror Lake NY, Lake Placid NY, Lake Champlain, Vermont

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                       The Festive Entrance                     Inside view

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The Gift Shop & Cafe is Warm and Cozy

Yesterday (10/7/15) we visited Fort Ticonderoga.  We did not post photos of the fort or views of Lake Champlain in yesterday’s blog, so….    here is a sense of what it is like to visit the fort.

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Canon, lots of canon

All but two of the canon at the fort were brought from the Caribbean in the 1950s.  One of Pell’s relatives went to the islands and purchased old French and Spanish canon for the fort.  He and the canon were captured by Honduran Thugs and held for ransom.  The ransom was negotiated and paid and he was released along with the canon.

The Pell family owns the land around the fort, the fort, and King’s Gardens.  This is the same Pell who instituted the Pell Grants for education.

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One Very knowledgeable Docent               A French Cannon

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The Fort’s Battlements

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Walking the Ramparts                  French Canon Close Up

We knew it would be a cold morning, but come on: 32 degrees?  That’s cold.  Later talking with the owners of Cascade Acres Mobile Home Park and Campground we learned that it had snowed a foot and a half this time two years ago!  “Be Prepared?”  NOT.

Cascade Acres Mobile Home Park and Campground, Lake Placid

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At the Cascade Acres Campground

First I must say I was glad they were there.  We had no desire to push on to a KOA that was pretty far from the town of Lake Placid.  Had we gone to the KOA, we would never have walked through main street Lake Placid or seen the beauty of Mirror Lake.  The owners of Brookwood RV Campsite, Ticonderoga said some of the best BBQ is at Smoke Signals on main street Lake Placid.  We would have missed this place if we pushed on to the KOA.  We still missed it, but for different reasons.

A word about Cascade Acres.  Off season the RV campground is EMPTY.  Park where you want, no problem.  Well sorry, there is one little bitty problem.  They do not have your typical 30 AMP hookup.  50 amps?  Forgetaboutit.  What they do have is a pair of 15 Amp 110 V circuits to each campsite. Technically that is 30 AMPs but good luck connecting.  At a local hardware store the next day we bought an “in case” 110 to 30amp connector so we could connect to a 110 V circuit and carefully run some “stuff”.  Overnight at Cascade Acres I chose to use batteries and our generator.   Also the men’s/woman’s showers and toilets are not heated. That would be no problem “on season”, but a real drag mid-October.

All in all, camping at Cascade Acres was an “adventure”.  On the bright side, it was so close to the town of Lake Placid that all the negatives were a non-issue.  Walk main street and Mirror Lake in the fall and you’ll see why.

The owners were good to talk to.  They recommended taking the Cumberland Head Ferry from Plattsburgh NY to Vermont and described the route and said it would be about $20.00.  They were correct on all counts.

Mirror Lake, Lake Placid

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The main town of Lake Placid sits on Mirror Lake, not on Lake Placid.  It is a charming ski town and a tourist get-away the other three months.  We walked the town, keeping on the sunny side of the street which was a good 15 degrees warmer.

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Smoke Signals opens at 4PM.  With some difficulty and longing, we agreed that staying at this lake until 4PM could jeopardize catching the ferry to Vermont.

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Lake Placid

We chose to drive to Lake Placid, the lake, after walking the town on Mirror Lake.  There’s a road around Mirror Lake, but there is no direct way to get to Lake Placid from the town.  After trying to find an “easy” way to get there, we both agreed that it would “cost” us at least an hour or two if we’d continued on.  We chose to skip the lake and head on to Lake Champlain and the Cumberland Head Ferry to Vermont.   We were told that Lake Placid was at peak color.  What we were seeing at Mirror Lake was near peak color.  The temptation was high, but we thought by moving on to Vermont we’d have better opportunities.  Then we have been in New York for at least eight days.  It was time to move on and Burlington would be our next stop.   There’s the Burlington Coat Factory and Bernie S. had his political start in Burlington Vermont.

High Falls Gorge, The Adirondacks, Wilmington NY

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I drove past a sign for “High Falls Gorge” and noticed a waterfall to my left.  “Should we go back?”  Yes! We found a good place to turn around a quarter mile down the road and we retraced our path back to High Falls Gorge.    This is a privately owned and operated developed park with a cafe, a souvenir shop, and a wooden walkway with stairs, banisters, plexiglass underfoot viewing platforms, and guard rails and fencing.  It is a bit pricey at $11.50 each.  A group of seven people were justifying not not going at that price. We did pay and were glad we had.

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The day was brisk but sunny and the walk through the pines was invigorating; breathing in the pine, feeling the mist from the water falls, walking the maze of stairs, and incredible scenery were well worth the price.

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Cumberland Head Ferry to Vermont

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For someone taking the ferry for the first time be warned, our GPS had no idea where to catch the ferry and the signs for the ferry are spaced very far apart.  If we had not stopped a postal delivery guy, we might still be hunting for the ferry.  Worse still, when we realized we were “lost”, we stopped to dial in the ferry location on our iPhones, we both had “server unavailable” popups on our phones.  We were SOL until the postal guy “saved” us.

The ferry is well outside of the town of Plattsburgh, here.

Our GPS showed a 3:34 Pm arrival at the ferry.  We actually found the ferry at 3:56 for the 4:08 ferry.  Great, we paid the $19.75 for driver, 24′ RV, and 1 passenger and queued up in line #2 behind a sprinter van and beside two 18 wheelers.  The trucks went on, the cars went on, our line started forward and the sprinter van ahead of us was waved through.  We sat and watched the last few cars waved on from lane 1, the gates close, and the ferry pull away from the dock.  Crap.

But, the advantage?  We were first on the next ferry that arrived a mere 13 minutes later! No sweat.  Three ferries ply this route.  We were the first vehicle on the ferry and had a great front row view as the ferry steamed across the lake.   It felt more than a bit like I was driving Li’l Beast across the lake.  All I needed do is turn the steering wheel and we’d turn.  No, but it felt like that.  It was very cool being the first off the ferry too.

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The ferry terminates on an island.  We drove the island to the causeway connecting it to mainland Vermont.  There’s a view point on the causeway and we had to stop.  The views are stunning.

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               Memorial Stone honoring those that lost their lives during 9 -11

 

North Beach Campground, Burlington Vermont

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Sunset at Apple Tree Bay, Vermont

Ellen found three campgrounds past the bridge from Grand Isle; Lone Pines Campground, three stars,  Malletts Bay Campground, three star; and North Beach Campground, also three star.  We talked over the advantages of each.  North Beach was closer to the water and further on than the other two and therefore a better choice.  We could arrive well ahead of sunset, settle in, and be close to the water.  North Beach is a bit of a drive from Rt 84 through Winooski, past a huge graveyard, through a college campus, around some side streets, and down a dead end road to an entry with an 11 foot lintel welcoming RVs into the campground.  We stopped well ahead of the lintel, we are 3 inches too high to make it through.

We were third in line, busy at this time of year maybe due to college and Columbus Day holiday? We wanted an open view to the south and internet access and were told which might work for us.  We were free to drive around and pick a site.  Just come back and do the paperwork.  We chose #105 thinking it had an OK view to the south.  We have good web access, but poor sat reception.  We do get good off air HD.

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Postcard Perfect

As the sun set, we hooked up, closed up, and walked down to Apple Tree Bay to watch the sun set.  The view over the bay looking toward New York is not to be missed if you are in the area.  There were sail boats off toward Burlington, a large gaff rigged schooner sailing south on Lake Champlain.  The sun had not set, but it was below the ridge to our west.  The mountain ridges in New York were different shades of gray-blue as they receded into the distance.  Lake Champlain is a huge lake.

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Sunset Light is Constantly Changing

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We are now comfortably ensconced in The Beast, snug and warm.

Tivoli, Rhinebeck, Lake George

   Tivoli, New  York

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The Beast, Tivoli New York

Tivoli is a small community on the Hudson River north of Rhinebeck.  Unlike many California, houses and house lots are large here.  It is not unusual to have a large house sitting on fifteen acres of land in a bucolic setting.  In the fall this part of New York is so appealing, it is difficult not to imagine settling here.  Then thoughts of winter snows, cold winds, and cabin fever banish the thought.  This would be an ideal setting for a three season “get away” home, as many New York City folks do.  Some preferred destinations are sleepy towns such as Tivoli, Hudson  Rhinecliff, and better known,  Rhinebeck with its storied past. Lots of history here along the Hudson River.  Amtrak and Metro North stations make it an easier commute to and from NYC.

We arrived at David and Christine’s home early Friday evening, October 2nd.  We did not want to be late.  We piled into David’s Prius and drove to Pine Plains, NY for DeDe’s early Thanksgiving Dinner for family.   Ellen and I only learned about the dinner a week before prior and made it a point to get to David & Chris’ house in time to make this event.  We had considered driving “the Beast” up the road and driveway to the house, but Ellen remembered that it was narrow, with some tight turns, and overhead branches.  Not wanting to arrive empty -handed, we took two Napa Valley wines along.

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David’s Barn needs some work

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Their back yard

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Canoeing anyone?

Pine Plains, New York

The house is spectacular, with one wall of floor to ceiling glass windows, a large fireplace, and a gourmet kitchen with a massive island.  DeDe’s dinner was also spectacular with a roast turkey, ham, and literally all the fixin’s.

Jessie, DeDe’s daughter,  had no idea Ellen and I might be there. When she arrived, she saw me and said, “That looks like Ron”, but she was not sure.  Don said, “there’s a surprise for you in the back room”, and Jessie hurried back to find that her surprise was Ellen.  Moments later she came up to me with a big hug and “I thought that was you”.  It was fun chatting with Jessie and Ryan about Hilton Head, fishing, and Ryan’s long term plans.

We all had a riotously good time.  Enjoying the feast were: DeDe and Don,  Jessie and Ryan, David and Christine, Rich and Cindy, Vinny and Shannon, Erica and Danny and the two of us, Ellen and Ron.  Don’s daughter dropped in for a while, too.

Tivoli

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The House that David and Christine “Built”

We slept very well in “the Beast” that night.  The next morning we awoke very late, at 10:30. I had my first tour of David and Chris’ “new” home.  Fourteen years ago they bought a wreck of a fixer-upper in Tivoli.  It was once a magnificent old home fronted by a porch with columns, ornate plaster ceiling medallions, high twelve foot walls, large windows, and fireplaces.  When they bought the house, it’s bones were good, but the house was a mess.  The house is a historic home which means it must be restored to its original condition on the outside.  Inside they can do whatever.  Fourteen years later, bathrooms, the kitchen, the living room, a front room/office, and a downstairs powder room are finished and finished beautifully.  Work on the largest downstairs room (the “dance hall” as I call it) has not been started.  The sill between the two fireplaces in the “dance hall” had rotted out and the outside wall had dropped two inches. David had that wall jacked up and the sill replaced.  There are two large seams running down the side of each fireplace where the wall was moved.  This room will be spectacular when it is finished; the two fireplaces fronted by medallions surrounding the light fixtures in the ceiling and an arch midway down the room will be stunning.  We did not see the upstairs.  We assume there are four bedrooms.

David did most of the work himself.  I think it is safe to say that Christine did much of the design work.  Their accomplishment is miraculous.   David did say he thought it would be a six or seven year project when he started.

Rhinebeck, Wilderstein, Olana

That day, Saturday, David drove us around Rhinebeck and to the Wilderstein Historic Site.  In the afternoon Chris and David took us to Olana NY State Historic Site, where she works.  Olana was Fredric Church’s estate.  Church is an American Landscape painter and a central figure in the Hudson River school of American landscape painters.  A two part art exhibit was in progress which included some of Church’s paintings and contemporary art on display both at Olana house and at Thomas Cole’s site.  Thomas Cole is regarded as the founder of the Hudson River school of American Landscape Painting and was close with Church. Their two homes (mansions) faced each other across the Hudson.  You will find more information about the River Crossings exhibit here.  The restoration society that is restoring Olana to its glory is carefully removing certain trees that have grown to block the views of the Hudson River Valley, one area at a time.  In another few years or a decade, the views from Olana which today are of the Hudson River seen through or between tree tops, will again be awe inspiring as I’d guess Frederic found them these many years past.

Something’s up with the 2nd floor!  In all the homes we visited in and round Rhinebeck, we never saw the 2nd floor.  Chris said that the first floor of the old mansions was for show and that the second floor where people actually lived was plain.

We planned to meet DeDe and Dan at Baba Louie’s in Hudson for dinner and arrived “home” with time to spare.  David and Chris described some of the work they had done on their house. I’ve done my share of renovating distressed homes (nothing on this scale though) and enjoyed discussing what and how they changed the interior.

Baba Louie’s & Ca’ Mia

When the time came to leave for Baba’s,  David lent us his Prius.  DeDe and Don were already there at the bar when we arrived and we were seated quickly.  We had very thin crust fire roasted pizza, a huge salad, and an IPA (for me) and some very funny and memorable conversation.  Time flew.  About half way through dinner I noticed the line out the door.  Baba Louie’s is a very popular place.   So popular in fact that when we asked for dessert menus we were told that BaBa’s was out of deserts!  They had none.  Our waiter suggested two places that were a good alternative; one I’ve forgotten (flan dessert specialty) , the other had “the best Tiramisu you will ever have”. I love great Tiramisu, but the finger cookies have to be soaked through with “the good stuff”.  Skeptically, we went off in search of Ca’ Mia and desert.

We walked for more than a few blocks and had nearly given up on finding the place when we came to the last storefront on main street.  There it was.  We walked through general seating with each table occupied and found seating at the bar in back; first seating for two (the girls) then for all four of us as the bar thinned out.  Don and I had Tiramisu, the gals shared something that to me was not very special. The Tiramisu was as good as BaBa’s waiter had said it would be, perhaps better.  I was in heaven, though that was tempered by the single birthday candle glowing brightly in the dim lighting of the bar when it was served.   After a rousing chorus of “happy birthday”, I could lose myself in the coffee, rum, ladyfingers, and mascarpone cheese.   We had a very good time that evening too.

J E T S, jets jets jets

The next day was the JETS / Dolphins football game, played in London.   It was not broadcast on DirecTV, but we could pick up local HD broadcast channels and we watched New York take Miami apart in the first half of the game and watched Miami threaten to return the favor in the second half.  It was a good game.  Better still, the JETS won, Ellen was happy, and thus I was happy.  I had to run the generator to recharge the Beast’s batteries during half time and again after the game.  I’m coming to grips with the Beast’s strengths and limitations.  We lazed about after the game, took showers in the Beast, and headed off to meet a group of Ellen’s long time Rhinebeck friends for afternoon drinks. Dennis and Leslie McGuire, Brian and Gwenie McGuire, Glenn and Diana Hobson, and Donna Mahoney who had to leave early.  I had met Brian, Gwenie, Glenn, and Diana the last time I’d visited Rhinebeck, with Ellen.  It took some rehashing old times to conclude that it was 2002 when last I’d visited.  Dennis and I had a spirited back and forth (ball-busting both ways) once I “confessed” that I support Obama.  It was all in good fun, I think so at least!  The conversation turned on many topics, skirting politics most times.  Diana set out a choice selection of chips, dip, fruit, pretzels, and hummus.  Wine flowed freely; the bottle we brought came and went along with a few others.  This was Too Much Fun.  After dusk, Ellen mentioned the pick-up truck we admired when we arrived.  It’s one that Glenn restored from a rusted hulk.  I don’t remember the year but I’m thinking it was a late 50’s Chevy.   He had another rust bucket in another garage bay that he’s not started on.  It was a 30’s something-or-other pick-up truck.  I’ll post Ellen’s photos once they’re off her camera.

Santa Fe Restaurant, Tivoli

That evening we took David, Chris, and their daughter, Erica, out to dinner at Santa Fe, one of David’s favorite restaurant. Their son Danny had to work. Portions were large, Margaritas were served by the pitcher, and the chips and salsa kept coming.  Again we had a great time.

The next morning David, Chris, and Erica all went off to work early.  We dawdled around some then drove to Rhinebeck, and some of Ellen’s old haunts.  She enjoys finding places she lived and noticing what has changed.  She had hoped to chat with Bryn and Wes who own two restaurants in town, “the local” and “the Shelter”.  Unfortunately, we didn’t connect with Bryn.  We did have coffee at “Bread Alone Bakery and Cafe”, lunch at “Terrapin”, and looked to restock our wine supply.

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Oliver Kita Chocolates Rhinebeck

Oh yes, we stopped at one of the chocolate sweet shops for a taste of Dark Chocolate and Ancho Chili bonbons.  Don’t let the nasty spiders out front fool you, these chocolates are really good; we still have some in the ‘fridge.  Check them out here.

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Oliver Kita Chocolate Shop

Moose Hillock Camping Resort & Lake George

About mid-afternoon we set off on our “leaf peeper” expedition and headed north into the Adirondacks.  We noticed Lake George and Ticonderoga as we headed north and chose to stop nearby and explore them tomorrow.  Ellen found a few possible campsites and we settled on Moose Hillock Camping Resort near the lake.  We arrived late.  The office was closed, but the store was open and we registered there around 7:30 pm.  The gal checked us in while the guy answered our questions.  The campground has over 250 campsites, most are empty now.  Next weekend (Columbus holiday) they will be full and they’ll close the following week.  The swimming pool is closed.  The showers take quarters that are good for fifteen minutes (we’ll see about that).  I think we’ll find many campgrounds that are closing for the winter as we move through Vermont and New Hampshire.  We’re not sure we’ll get north into Maine, though I would like to visit Moosehead Lake.

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Moose Hillock has big campsites

We’ve eaten, we have a full tank of propane, and a full hookup.  We’ve had memorable visits with Rich, Jean, Shadrach, and friends in Colorado; Carol, Paul, Dylan, Heidi & Jameson in Syracuse;  David, Chris, Erica, Danny, DeDe, and Don, Jessie and the whole family in Hudson and Pine Plains; and we met with good friends in Rhinebeck.  We’ve had a rollicking good time!

What more could we ask for?

 

 

Cinderella, Niagara Falls, Walk to Canada, Syracuse NY

Niagara Falls

Cinderella Motel and Campsites

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Cinderella, Beast Style

 

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Cinderella Campsite Common Area

We awoke early, planning to run up to Niagara Falls and beat the crowds.  My watch showed 10:30 local time.  We were anything but early.  I walked the campground and took a few photos while Ellen setup to leave.  The campground is visually appealing with stands of trees, an open-sided meeting building centrally located, and showers and laundry.

Sewer Trouble

We took the slide-out in and were ready to go.  Checking tank levels, it made sense to drain the swamp before we left.  I moved the Beast closer to the drain and hooked it all up.  After watching this video, Comparing Tank Flushers in the Clear RV Black Tank, I chose use a clear elbow with a flush connection and a valve ( like this ) attached to the hose running into the drain for our RV setup.  The idea being to open the clean-out valve, drain the black, close the clean-out valve and back fill the tank, open the clean-out valve to flush the tank and repeat until the tank runs clear. Then I’d do the same for the gray tank.  Easy!

With the black tank valve open, the hose filled up and refused to drain!  Great, the campsite drain was plugged up and would not drain.  Now  I’ve got a 3 inch tube full of poo.  I thought for a while and realized I could pressurize the hose and perhaps force the obstructed drain clear.  To do this I closed off the black valve and turned on the water  which pressurized the hose.  This inflated the hose, showed a number of pin-hole leaks which were now small geysers, and forced fluid out around the drain fittings.   FAIL.  I opened the black tank valve to relieve pressure, then closed it and closed the flush valve.  Now I could disconnect at the RV without the entire hose emptying out.  I moved the hose away from “everything” and emptied the hose.  What a mess.  It was 12:30 now and the Cinderella office was closed.   After cleaning up as best I could, we headed off to Niagara Falls.

<<<<<  No Photos of this Disaster >>>>>

Walking to Canada

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Shots from the Rainbow Bridge Walking into Canada

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The American Falls from Rainbow Bridge

We drove into the same lot we had parked the evening before.  Took a ticket and looped around to find a double spot.   As I was pulling in, I saw an attendant hurrying toward me waving his arms.  We were told that we could not park there, but if we go out there, take a right, then another right, then the first exit from the rotary down the road, we’ll find parking lot #3, free parking for RVs.  Parking Lot #3 is way out in the boonies.  It is free, but it would be a long walk back to the Rainbow Bridge to cross into Canada.  There is a shuttle that runs throughout the park.  For $2 per person, you can get on and off the Shuttle as many times as you want in a day.  We opted to take the Shuttle and got off at the 2nd stop near the base of the pedestrian bridge.  Proper documentation is necessary to cross into Canada, a driver’s license is insufficient.  We took our passports.

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Maid of the Mist

The view of American Falls from the Rainbow Bridge is breathtaking.

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the American Falls

We passed a number of couples and groups walking back toward the U.S.   Typically Americans commercialize tourist destinations, often to excess.  It has been forty or so years since Ellen or I  last visited the falls.  In that time the American side of the falls has been developed, but not commercialized.  It has a few new buildings in the park: the Aquarium for example.  The Canadian side looks to be a full city.  There are at least two casinos, hotels, restaurants, and an esplanade along the gorge leading toward the falls.  The esplanade has a formal gardens, lawns, and wonderful plantings along its length.  While commercial, the Canadian side shows a sense of pride and retains a quaintness that I had not expected. The American side seemed to have  more park area.

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Gardens and Sky Tower

 

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Horseshoe Falls

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More of Horseshoe Falls

The views of the falls from the Canadian side is not to be missed.  We did not have time to take the “Maid of the Mist” boat tour of the falls from the U.S side or the equivalent Canadian tour, nor did we walk the caves behind the falls.  We would love to come back to do them. We’re now staying with Paul and Carol in Syracuse NY,  Paul said there’s a jet boat you can take on the Canadian side that runs up to the class V or VI rapids way above the falls and that this is no to be missed.  We’ll add that to our list of things to do “next time”.  Paul said to find the jet boat you drive up the Canadian side of the waterway and you can’t miss the signs for the boats.

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Of course we were snapping photos like crazy and standing in awe of the falls when we weren’t.

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Returning, we walked quickly back to the bridge.  We were already late leaving for Syracuse and might miss dinner!  To our surprise, there is a turnstile on the Canadian side.  You must pay 50 cents to exit Canada.  We had twenties.  There were change machines that took Canadian and US one dollar bills, but nothing larger.  We were discussing our options and being disgusted at a out further delay as couples and groups shuffled by and through the turnstiles.  I was just about to go back out to the street to find a place to change a 20 when a very gracious Swedish couple, Anne and Malton, gave us each 50 cents and we were on our way.

We caught the Shuttle.  Unfortunately, it had four stops before getting back to lot #3.  We were running later still.  If we had time we would  have further explored Niagara State Park.

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We have a number of videos that capture the mighty power and awesome (“AFA”, you know who you are!) beauty of the falls, but they are too large to post to the blog (yeah, what’s with that?).  So I’ll move the videos to our photo album in the next few days.

Syracuse

On the drive to Syracuse, we ran into some rain but no construction on 90 east of Niagara.  Our GPS worked beautifully and we arrived at Paul and Carolann’s home almost two hours later than we wanted.   Their son, Dillon, had not yet arrived; we had not missed dinner.

We’ll stay here in Syracuse for a few days visiting with Paul and Carolann, then head off toward Duchess County; Rhinebeck, etc., to meet more of Ellen’s family.

Ron & Ellen  a stone’s throw from fall foliage in the north east.

 

 

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There are two agents we are using to plan and execute our trip to Ecuador and Peru next Spring.  Totally Latin America has put the Peruvian portion of our trip together for us.

Dash Cam Video, try try again

Well that didn’t work!  Simply speeding up a video to compress time is terrible.  It might work for a humorous video of people working, but not for dash cam video.

Enter PowerDirector and the ability to compress time to fit a sound track.  I’m not trying to boost PowerDirector sales, but this is one of the fastest editing and rendering programs I’ve used.  It has some extreme limitations in its editing features.  I suppose that’s the trade-off, speed and ease of use for functionality.  The software is also quite inexpensive for what you get.  It does crash if overwhelmed; loading too many AVI files at once challenges its memory/cache for example.  Loading the same set of files converted to MP4, works.

I will remove the dash cam videos at 16x and I’ll be uploading our entire trip from Connecticut to California.  Well almost the entire trip, Day 1 starts at night south of Baltimore, Md, I’ll skip that and start with Day 2 which should be available in a few hours.  These videos are much smoother and more fun to watch.

I’ll be experimenting with these videos to make them more fun; adding still shots, inserting google map shots, changing up the music.

Ron

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Ecuador and Peru, Spring 2016

 

Banos

We will fly into Quito, and drive to Banos, Ecuador.  Banos is the adventure capital of Ecuador and home of Pailon Del Diablo, devil’s cauldron.  Ellen and I will not do white water rafting, kayaking, or mountaineering here.  We will visit the cauldron, take a zip line, and relax in at spa resort.  Banos is “on the way” from Quito to Guayaquil.

we may stay at the Samari Spa Resort, Banos.  Here are a few photos from the hotel’s stock photos.

Banos

 

Samari

Pailon del diablo

One of the reasons to visit Banos is to see this dramatic waterfall.  A big “thank you” to Jim for posting this some time ago.  I do not think he knew we would be anywhere near Pailon del Diablo and he probably thought it was one very crazy place as if, “Who would want to go there?  This is insane!”  Well we will be traveling close enough to make a trip to Banos and this waterfall possible.  Both the waterfall and what I’ve read about Banos makes it a nearly “must do” for me.

Rio Verde and the Pailon del Diablo, Ecuador

Pailon del Diablo Waterfall, Ecuador

Galapagos

From Banos we will drive to Guayaquil and meet up with the Galapagos Expedition on a National Geographic boat.  We posted details of that leg of our trip in a prior post.  It will be a ten day tour of some of the islands returning to Guayaquil.

Lima

We will stay a few days in Miraflores, Lima.  Miraflores is right on the coast with high-rise buildings and a craggy shoreline.

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Machu Picchu, the Sacred Valley, and Manu

From Guayaquil, we will take a short bus ride from Ecuador just over the border into Peru, then take a flight to Lima.  Here we will hook up with our second series of tours and an expedition down one of the tributaries of the Amazon River to Manu.  Nick has provided a remarkable itinerary for us for an additional two weeks, giving us time to acclimate to the altitude at Cusco, visit Machu Picchu, and the Sacred Valley on a private tour, and adventure down one of the tributaries of the Amazon, in the Amazon Rain Forest.

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We may see a jaguar or two while in Manu, if we are very lucky.   We can expect to see these guys

Trogon Quetzal

Trogon and Quetzal

capuchin Andean Cock-of-the-Rock

Capuchin and  Andean Cock-of-the-Rock

AhingaHeron

Ahinga Heron

 

as well as tapirs, river otters, and capybaras.  I hope some of our photos are as dramatic and inspiring as these stock photos taken from the web.

Ron