Tag Archives: Salerno

Italy Day 14, a Ferry, Salerno, a Car Rental, Torre Del Greco, and Occhio!

 

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Amalfi’s Fountain in the Main Square

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We felt comfortable knowing that the ferry from Amalfi to Salerno ran regularly.  There was some discrepancy in the scheduled times we saw, but not enough to cause concern.  We slept a bit late and packed.  To turn in the key, we walked to the owner’s flat, rang, and were buzzed into her patio. She came out moments later, “Buongiorno, Come stai?” We chatted for a while, mentioning again that Romeo messed up in not arranging to have our bags (and us) whisked up to the apartment.  Would we like a ride down?  “No, downhill is not a problem.”  With mille grazie on both sides, we parted and hiked down to a coffee shop near the ferry bigletteria.

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Ellen waited at the coffee shop entrance while I purchased tickets.  The next ferry was at 10:20, roughly an hour away.  We ordered cappuccino and a doppio macchiato enjoying the sun.  Ellen mentioned she wished she had photographed a narrow street when we walked down.  “Go do it.  We have lots of time before the ferry arrives”  She came back well ahead of the ferry.  We moved to the dock to wait.  It was a glorious morning with some high clouds in the sky.  Not enough to threaten rain.

The Ferry

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The ferry for Positano arrived first and it was packed on departure.  Fifteen minutes later we were on the ferry to Salerno, which was half full.  We sat close to a couple with a baby girl. She was gorgeous.  Part way through the trip, we commented on how beautiful their daughter was.  They were on vacation from Sidney for two weeks visiting relatives in Campania. Their parents live in Sidney with them. He is a firefighter, she a teacher (If I remember correctly).  I have great respect for firefighters.  California is just coming out of a drought and has had four years of severe fires. The 40 minute ferry to Salerno went by quickly.  As we left I joked, “Can we take your daughter for just a few weeks?”  I’m not sure they heard me, probably for the better.  We landed at a familiar port, unloaded and walked to the car rental (europcar) with the help of my Italian Smart Phone (thank you TIM).  It was a short walk away, made longer by heading in the wrong direction for a while before the GPS corrected itself (err, me).

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We bantered with the rental host in broken English and Italian.  Had our passports photocopies, signed here, there, everywhere on a form, and were walked to a pristine, white, Alfa Romeo Guilet sitting practically on the sidewalk.  I was shown how to open the trunk (not obvious) how to open the gas lid (would have got that one) and , “Should I show you how to find reverse?”  “No, I think I’ve got that. Thanks.”.  He walked off, while another europcar fellow stood nearby watching closely.  I think there was a bet going, “how far will I get before causing a crash or could I even drive off the curb?”  It took my time settling in, adjusting the mirrors, figuring out how to shift into reverse (lift a ring under the shifter and move the lever into reverse), setup our Garmin Nav with a Fodor’s map of Italy.  It took some time.  The attendant patiently stood by waiting.  Into first gear and a soft push of the throttle and the car lurched forward. I think I scared the fellow who made room for me as much as I frightened Ellen. I was too busy to be concerned. I was free and driving in Salerno.

There are two GPS maps of Italy available for the Garmin Numi today.  The Fodor’s is the best of the two.  It is very good at getting close to your destination, but very bad at locating it.  We use our Italian masterpiece and Google maps for the last 20 km.  I had wanted to see Bacoli, a small town on a peninsula west of Naples, but we thought it best to avoid Naples and went directly to Torre del Greco.   The surface roads getting to the autostrade are hit and miss, some good others not so much. The autostrada was great.  Smooth except where marked, and fast.  I did not see one polizia the entire drive.

I chose Torre del Greco because it is close to Pompeii.  I wanted to visit the ruins and they were just off the autostrade.  Arriving at Pompeii, I parked in the first place I found after some difficulty (fun) crossing cross traffic.  We parked and were told that parking was free if we had lunch there.  We were starving and not thinking very straight.  Sure.  We sat, ordered, then were told that we had to spend 40 euros for free parking.  Our order was less.  But you could get the mozzarella and a water and be ok.  Humm, 3 euro per hour, we could stay overnight for 40 euros, but we were starving.  Ok.  The pizza was good, not great.  The mozzarella was not buffalo.  The beer was good!  We felt like we had been had, and we had been. With a shrug, we were off to the ruins.

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Free Parking with Lunch, Do Not Eat Here

I have been to a number of ancient archeological sites, some very well preserved.  Nothing I have ever seen prepared me for Pompeii.  It is massive.  It is an entire Roman city that was destroyed when Mt Vesuvius erupted. Think about that: an entire city.  destroyed, volcanic eruption.  I’ll post a photo showing Mt Vesuvius today. If you run a line up both sides of the volcano, they intersect well above the saddle in the current mountain. The area below that intersection is the amount of the mountain that was blown into the air along with probably an equal mass of molten lava from the earth’s core.  This is astounding in its magnitude.

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The Nine Regions of Pompeii, Pompeii is Vast!

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Modern Sculpture Abound on Site, Beautiful but do not be fooled.

Equally astounding is the extent of the city the Romans had build by 79 AD, the year the city was destroyed. You have to see it to believe the size. And not just the size, but the quality of life shown in the layout and decorative skills of the artists and artisans of the period.  The mind runs in several directions when confronted with Pompeii.

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A Human Body Encased in Ash and Turned To Stone

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More of the Same

Destruction, annihilation, extinction.  When randomness in the universe was first proposed, the church opposed the theory on the basis that God would never allow the earth to be destroyed by some random act of “nature” (or God).  That a massive asteroid ended the dinosaur’s evolutionary path is well accepted.  Ours, mankind’s, could end just as abruptly.

I hope this video gives you a sense of the size of Pompeii.  This is a video of one small part of one of the nine sections of the ruins of Pompeii.

Quality of Life.  What defines quality of life.  Nearly 2000 years ago, these people had a very good and relatively advanced culture.  Arguably, from a literary or philosophical point of view,  as advanced as our own today.  Scientifically and gadgetarily there is no comparison of course.  But does having more “stuff” imply a better life?

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Classic Tile Floor from 79AD, Pompeii

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Mosaic 79AD, Pompeii

Empathy. Why did I feel such abject sadness that an entire city was wiped out.  I have no immediate connection to these people who perished 1,938 years ago. Yet I felt sorrow, tearful at the event and what remains now.

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It felt strange walking the paths that these long gone people once walked, embraced on, and even were immolated on.  There are ash encased remains on display here and there, with clothes and muscles as detailed as in life as if clinging to life.  Hands held to mouths to shelter one more breath from the heat or ash.

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The mosaics, the two amphitheaters, that must have played a role in entertainment.  Making the mundane more bearable, like our jaunts to the big screen for some escape.

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The Lesser Amphitheater

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Expanse of ruins

We got lost finding our way out.  Who knew there were three entrances and therefore three exits.  Which entrance did you come in?  Well, we don’t know.  Let me check our ticket.  With that and some help from a docent, we found our way out.  In the process we saw much more of the ruins that we expected.  At some point anything as large as this becomes overwhelming.  I cannot take more than a few hours, three at the most, in the Louvre.  Saturation sets in, I get “punchy” and have to leave. Pompeii is huge, far too big in size, scope, and implication for more than three hours.

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Painting On Stone, Pompeii

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Steam Heated Walls in 79AD, Pompeii

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A Courtyard, Pompeii

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Another Stone Body, Note Clothing and Hair Detail

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Mt Vesuvius In the Distance

Look at Mt Vesuvius in the background of the photo above. If you continue a line along the right slope and left slop they intersect at a point high above a little below and left of the left cloud.  The part of the mountain that is missing was blown away.  Probably an equal amount of molten core material exploded into the air, rising up into a column of super-heated rock probably miles high.  When that column collapsed back to earth, it engulfed Pompeii destroying parts of the city while covering other parts in ash leaving Pompeii largely intact but buried.

From Britannicia.com:

“Herculaneum was discovered in 1709, and systematic excavation began there in 1738. Work did not begin at Pompeii until 1748, and in 1763 an inscription (“Rei publicae Pompeianorum”) was found that identified the site as Pompeii.Sep 13, 2016”

Leaving Pompeii, our Garmin Numi got us close to Hotel Poseidon, Google Maps took us to the doorstep.

At reception we met Germano, who was very accommodating. Room Keys, Breakfast downstairs 7:30 to 10:30, park out back, take the elevator to your room, this is a seafood town all the restaurants serve very fresh seafood. Enjoy.  We tried to speak our limited Italian, but Germano was having none of it.

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Hotel Poseidon, Torre del Greco

Hotel Poseidon is modern and decorated as if you were staying at the bottom of the sea.  It is so modern, I could not figure out how to use the elevator! Seriously.  I’ve seen electronic panels with touch sensitive regions that spring to life when you press them.  I pressed away to no avail.  Lights came on, but nothing happened. Germano,, at the desk said (as if he’s done this many times), “Slide your thumb, don’t press!  Like this”  He slid his thumb across the panel, the up/down indicators glowed red, and after some whirring the elevator doors opened.

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Looking Down to the Lobby, Hotel Poseidon, Torre del Greco

The apartment was new and clean. All the fixtures in the bath room were bright shiny new.  The shower had a wand and overhead rain head with plenty of hot water. The bed was firm and comfortable.

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Taverna a Mare viewed from the Lido

Settled in, we left to explore the town. We walked down to the wharf/marina which clearly is a working marina. We walked until we could walk no further and had to turn back. At that point on the 2nd floor was a restaurant that looked inviting, but wasn’t open. “Let’s go check it out”. It was not obvious how to get there and in the process we passed an interesting café/bar with enclosed street side seating. Cool. We continued on trying a few dead end streets and eventually came upon the front entrance to Taverna a Mare.

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They were setting up for dinner. At the entrance was an ice lined display case of seafood that one fellow was setting up.  It was enormous.  Scusi, then I said in English that I’d like to make reservations for this evening.  He spoke with another fellow who scurried off to find someone.  I followed close on his heals. Moments later I was face to face with the manager, a tall big hulk of a man in his late 30’s, imposing with jet black hair and a full beard.  We do not open until 8pm.  We can seat you then if you like.  Yes, that would be fine.  Then he did something strange.  He paced his right index finger just under his right eye with the finger running down his cheek, lowered his head, and glared at me for too long. It was unnerving.  What is this guy doing?  I had the sense not to react at all.  After probably 30 seconds of this he relaxed and showed us out. Strange. The gesture is called occhio, and it means, “I’m watching you and I am not a fool”.. Check these Italian gestures out: http://edition.cnn.com/2015/05/29/travel/experts-guide-to-italian-hand-gestures/

 

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Da Ciccio

To kill close to an hour we went back to that bar we had seen, Bar da Ciccio.  This was a fun place to stop for a while.  I ordered a birra della spina and Ellen a limoncello.  Where are you from and we were off.  We used google translator to talk to each other.  First the gal then a guy.  We went back and forth.  Later I ordered another round and the conversation grew.  Ellen took photos of the group, who said, No let’s all be in the photo. The time came to go to Taverna and we parted with many Arrivederci’s, salves, and ciaos.

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Da Ciccio Crew

We were seated at Taverna a Mare beside another couple. The Italians do this. They are a gregarious lot and expect cross table conversation to flourish.  I had seen scorfano on ice when we entered, and ordered scorfano.  Ellen had coveted my spaghetti vongole the last time I ordered it.  We had house wine by the glass.  Ellen asked if she could have extra clams on her order. “Si, madam”.  I’ve probably mentioned this before, but the vongole, clams, are very small and very tasty.  They’re smaller than little neck clams of New England.  Ellen’s vongole was excellent, but my fish was amazing. The first bite was firm, mild, and very flavorful.  It was like a bit of perfectly cooked Main lobster, but tender.  I was ecstatic.

                               

Video of Taverna a Mare, just for the audio.

The couple beside us each had spaghetti vongole for their first course and salt encrusted fish for their second. This reminded me of the time Markus and Axlexandra visited in Venice.  The four of us wanted to share salt encrusted fish at a restaurant, but a Russian party ordered the last one.  That started a conversation about fish with the couple, Jonathan and Anna. Anna joked that her name is an anagram, demonstrating a thorough grasp of English.  They had driven down from Switzerland on a two week vacation.  They would go as far as the Amalfi coast.  I recommended Da Gemma in Amalfi and we raved about Ravello. Anna is a PhD candidate in biochemistry.  She is striking, poised, and very quick witted.  It would be fun to get to know them better.

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Some of Torre del Greco’s Fishing Fleet

A word about Torre del Greco.  For fresh seafood, this is the best place we have visited thus far. The ice bar, to your right as you enter Taverna a Mare, is at least thirty feet long and five feet deep.  It is filled with whole fish and shellfish, fresh caught that day.  There is more seafood on display in that restaurant than most seafood mongers have in their entire shop.  The variety as well as the extent of the display was staggering.  Yes, they had scorfano and clams and muscles, and lobster, and fish I’ve never seen before.  Use Torre del Greco as a stopover to see Erculano, Pompeii, and perhaps Bacoli.  Walk the beach, check out the working marina and fishing boats.  Enjoy a drink or two Bar da Cicco.  Talk with the staff, they’re really happy friendly people.  Iif you’re really lucky (or unlucky) you’ll get “the occhio” at taverna a Mare. There is a “there, there” at Torre del Greco, but it is not on the surface.

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We walked back to Hotel Poseidon happy, sated, and ready for bed.

Italy, Sicily day 8 Tindari, Messina, and off to Salerno (and oops, Catania)

In Messina we take a ferry to Villa San Giovanni, the mainland, and a train from there to Salerno. We drop our Volvo off in Messina.

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Tindari

On the way to Messina I planned to visit Tindari, Home of a Greek-Roman archeological site.  It is also the home of a Cathedral of the Black Madonna.  The archeological sites interests me far more, though the legend of the Black Madonna is worth a read, here.  A restaurant owner also suggested we visit Montalbano Elicona for it’s monolithic rocks, but we do not have time for both.

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Tindari’s legendary Sand Spit

The road to Tindari from Piraino is a slow one.  It is windy and in one place the main road is closed to do a mud slide.  The alternate road is what should be a one lane road used for two lanes of traffic.  Luckily that stretch of road is lightly travelled.  There are numerous tunnels and many areas where road work narrows an already narrow road.

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The Coast Road to Tindari

Tindari sits atop a hill overlooking a bay and a legendary spit of land (see “Black Madonna” above)  Our NAV system took us right to the parking lot at the base of the hill.  A talkative fellow approached as I looked for the parking ticket kiosk.  “Parking here is free.  Do you want to take a bus to the top?  You should eat at “the Greek”  for lunch.  it’s the restaurant right over there.  It has very good food.  Where are you from?”  This guy was genuinely friendly and aside for being a barker for the restaurant, he was interesting to talk to while Ellen sorted out what she needed from our bags in the car.

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We chose to walk to the top (why not, we’ve walked everywhere else?) and skipped the bus.  For the first half or two thirds of the hike up, there is no view.  You pas houses, some with inquisitive dogs.  Every now and then a local buzzes by.  The bus passed us once going up and again going back down.

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Closer to the top a dramatic view opens up only to close out around the next bend.  Near the top we encountered the first row of vendors selling trinkets; some selling fruit and nuts.  It is hard to pass up a free sample.  Once you take a sample, the hook is set. If you say we’ll see you on the way down, they own you.  We did buy some nuts on the way down only to find the quality varied enormously from nut to nut.  My recommendation?  Avoid buying anything from these folks.  Get nuts and fruit from a supermercato.   We did not take photos of the vendors, we did not want to draw attention to ourselves.

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Tindari’s Cathedral

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Tindari’s Cathedral sits prominently atop the hill.  It is visible from miles around.  To me it is too modern to be interesting.  The piazza that fronts the church has a commanding view of the sea and Tindari’s famous spit of sand.  We lingered soaking in the sunshine dancing on the sea as a sailboat slowly drifted by below.  We were both hungry, but thought we’d check out the ruins first.

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The walk to the ruins is along a short street lined with pizzerias and trinket vendors.  Both were tranquil; we were not accosted once here.  Like most things in Italy, you pay to visit the ruins.  The fee is small.  The money goes toward preservation and improvements.  You walk right into the top of the amphitheater.  The stone bench seats are fenced off.  The Greeks placed their theaters high in the hills and at the shore; close to their gods.  I think performances were for the gods more than for the audience.  Wasn’t a Roman Emperor a god?   Greek plays are performed in the theater to this day.  The amphitheater dates to the 4th century BC.

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The Sicilians have let plans consume the amphitheater. I have no idea why.

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Ancient Mosaic Tiles

The trail past the amphitheater takes you down to a road that leads to the ruins.   Inside the low walls to the left are nearly intact mosaics; works or art in themselves.  The Greek arches ahead are the remnants of the Basicila.  The City of Tindari was founded in about 400BC by Dionysus I, “the Tyrant of Syracuse”.  Only the ruins of the city remain today.

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A Glass Urn from around 4 BC

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A quick Bite

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And a Birra

Messina ?

It was fun walking these ancient paths on a gloriously sunny day in Northern Sicily.  The views are stunning.  Hunger eventually got the better of us.  We went back to Restaurante Tyndaris.  We shared a beer and a heated Panini then headed off to Messina.  Now the GPS took us to the autostrada and we made good time to Messina.  There was no way to enter the street address in the nav system, Via XXVII Luglio 34, Messina.  What to do with XXVII?  We tried everything 26, XXVII, twenty six: nothing worked.  My trusty Italian phone took us right to the address!  Well almost, it has an accuracy issue and the version of google maps is horrendous.  I’ll check for an upgrade soon.

We found the address.  A V-shaped floor to ceiling glass wall with a  door, a series of buzzers, and nobody.  Out of my set of folders I pulled “Caroli Guest House” and called the owner.  The woman who answered in Italian, hesitated then passed the phone to her friend who spoke better English than my Italian.  They’d be right down.  In five minutes time, they were.  The apartment was exactly as presented online. It was clean, comfortable, and perfect for us to make connections with the ferry to Villa San Giovanni tomorrow to connect by train to Salerno.  The women were very helpful pointing out their favorite local restaurants (no, not family run), where the supermarket was, and where to catch the ferry across the Straits of Messina.

I left Ellen in the apartment and drove off to drop the car off at Europcar.  The NAV system took me right to their Messina office in a seedy industrial area.  The office was closed! Nobody was there and a sign read: open Saturdays 9:00 – 13:00. Monday-Friday stated hours,  Sunday was not mentioned.  Not Good! I would not be able to drop the car off until Monday?

Catania ?  Yes, Catania!

I called europcar.  The representative was not very sympathetic.  “You missed the drop-off time!”, well, yeah. “You can drop the car off Monday”, well, no.  “You could drop it off in Catania”, that’s not happening “What if I leave the car where it is” silence on the line for a heartbeat then, “It will be stolen.  Drop the car off in Catania, it is the best”.  I hung up, realizing that I probably didn’t check the drop-off hours. Crap.  I called again to see if I could get a more sympathetic ear.  Nope, I heard the same story: Catania. “It’s only 40 km away and you can take the bus back”  right.

I called Ellen, described the situation, and suggested that I’d drive to Catania and come back by bus.  She wanted to come along. OK, we were off to Catania’s airport to fine Europcar.  Trust is a funny thing.  That 40km estimate was 110km by our GPS.  It took an hour and a half to get to the airport.  Traffic wasn’t too bad, but it was going crazy fast with lots of trucks.  I was asked in a “white knuckle” sort of way to “please, slow down”. 

Ellen was great at spotting signs to Europcar.  I would not have found it so easily myself.  They accepted the car.  I asked where I might pick up a bus to Messina.  The first person I asked just made a “tsch” sound.  This is a typical Sicilian way of saying “it’s not going to happen” or “it didn’t happen”.  I had heard that just once before in one of the Montalbano episodes.  This chilled me.  We are now 110 km from the Messina to Villa San Giovanni ferry.  Not good.  You know the definition of insanity, right?  I asked another fellow, hoping for a different answer or at least not a “tsch”.

Fellow number two said, “I’m not sure, but most busses stop right in front of the airport, right over there (pointing toward who knows what over “there”).  By now Ellen and I are both starving.  All we had eaten today was a half sandwich.  We were subdued by this situation. There was no blame, no why didn’t you blah blah.  We resigned ourselves to finding a bus or train back to Messina and headed in “that general direction”.  Surprisingly, right over there was the main entrance to the airport AND a bunch of busses queued along the walkway.  With some difficulty we found a bus schedule that included Catania to Messina.  A bus would be leaving in an hour.  It was now about 19:30. Cool, we fount the biglietteria and purchased two “semplice”  tickets.   Now for some food.

The Best Pizza

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Airport food is not the best, unless you happen to be in Catania. There was my favorite pizza place in Arlington Mass where I’d buy pizza by the slice after school.  The crust was done perfectly, with numerous very small spots of char on the bread, a fantastic combination of cheeses, and just the right amount of sauce.  I’ve had good pizza, bad pizza, home made pizza, “the best” pizza, but none has ever come close to that old Arlington pizza by the slice.  None, until now.  I bought a single slice of Margherita Pizza from Sfizio and was in heaven.  This was exactly how pizza should be.  The taste, doneness, texture, cheeses, sauce; all were perfect.  It made the evening’s disaster worth it (well not really, but at least something went better than planned). We ate though Ellen’s first choice was disappointing: all bread.  Her second choice was really good.

Messina !

We found the kiosk for the Messina bus, boarded, and took a ride back to Messina. Luck was with us.  The bus drove right by Carini Guest House.  The bus had been making random stops for other people, I hopped up and asked if he could stop for us right here.  I said this in Italian somehow.  The answer?  “no”  We went to the bus terminus, two blocks further down.  No Problem.

Back at Carini House, I check my notes and found that I had booked the train from Villa San Giovanni at 8:45 tomorrow morning.  To be safe we’d have to take the 7:20 ferry.  Counting back in time we set our alarms for 5AM.  It was now 1:30 AM.  Tomorrow would be a crazy day.

Planning for Spring in Italy

Today Rick Steves, ” A Pocket Guide to Florence” arrived in the mail.

Last year we visited Rome ahead of a Seabourn cruise of the Greek Islands. The cruise landed in Venice, where we met our friends, Markus and Alexandra, before moving on to Florence for four days. We absolutely loved the Greek Islands and Italy. We vowed to return to Italy for an extended stay. We also hope to do some island hopping in Greece, but on another trip. For us, a return trip to Italy came first.

Today, thinking back on our last Italian sojourn, Florence stands out as the place to stay for an extended time. Rome and Venice are outstanding. We had a wonderful time learning how to live in both cities; walking the streets seeing the piazzas, seeing world renound art in museums and discovering lesser known ones. We both enjoy taking chances on trattorias with an occasional forgettable experience. Rome and Venice are perhaps the most stunning cities in the world. In spite of all that, for us, Florence felt like home.

I remembered vividly two Florentine restaurants where we had lunch.Unfortunately I did not remember their names and couldn’t locate them on a detailed map. But… looking back over our Florence blog, I found one is “Il Barroccio”. I remember that the other is closer to the Giardino della Gherardesca and the Four Seasons Hotel. There it was in our blog: Trattoria Cibreo. Many other restaurants were memorable for service or for their location. These two restaurants were unassuming and served the most wonderful dishes.

This trip first lands us in Palermo, Sicily where we rent a car and drive the north shore of Sicily to Messina. From Messina we take a ferry and train to Salerno. From Salerno we self-tour Capri, Sorrento, Positano, Amalfi, and Ravello before renting a car for a month at Salerno. From Salerno we drive the coast visiting Paestum, Pompeii, Torre del Greco, Erculo, Bacoli, Gaeta, and Sperlonga before turning inland toward Tivoli. We will visit some of the castle towns of Velletri, Genzano, Ariccia, Albano, Laziale, Castel Gandolfo, or Frascati then stop in Tivoli. The road from Tivoli to Orvieto runs near Calcata and Bagnoregio. From Orvieto we drive to Florence. All our lodging for this eighteen day trip as well as our six weeks in Florence is now booked and confirmed.

Booking accommodations was amusing if sometimes frustrating. I used bookings.com, homeaway.com, tripadvisor.com, and hotels.com. Often a listing was common to all with different prices. Sometimes one site would have a listing the others did not. Where prices differed, some included the taxes and fees in the price, some included just fees or just taxes, some included neither. The least expensive listing often was acutally the most expensive after fees and taxes. We booked six stays through bookings.com, four through homeaway.com, three through TripAdvisor, and two through hotels.com. We booked our stay at the Villa Igiea, Palermo directly.

We would book our connections now, but it is not possible to do so online. Train tickets can only be booked 120 days in advance and the 2017 ferry schedules are not yet avaiable online. Then too, it may be better not to book ahead to avoid missing a connection.

What a marvelous adventure awaits.

Here are some stock photos that present the scope of our travels from Palermo to Florence.

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Lavenzo Island

 

Lorenzo petroglyphs

Petryglyphs on Levanzo Island

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Villa Igiea, Palermo

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Cefalu

Salerno

Salerno

Capri BlueGrotto capri

Capri and the Blue Grotto

Sorrento

Sorrento

Sorrento

Positano

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Amalfi Coast and Amalfi

Paestum

Paestum

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Bacoli

Gaeta

Gaeta

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Sperlonga

Valletri

Valletri

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Arricia

 albano laziale

Albano Laziale

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Calcata

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Bagnoregio

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Tivoli

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Orvieto

 

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