Category Archives: To New England

North Conway New Hampshire to Scarborough Maine

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Eastern Slope Campground

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With thoughts of breakfast at “The Blueberry Muffin” rolling through our heads, we headed off.  This was the fourth or fifth campground we’ve closed.  I’m losing count.

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Camping World, Central Conway

We wanted to visit Camping World and Hills RV.  Hills to purchase a check valve, Camping World to update some of our “stuff” and perhaps get some Blue Def. For some reason we went to Camping World first and found both the Blue Def and a check valve.  We even replenished our propane.  The Camping Word in Conway is a no frills shop.  They have a very complete selection of important functional parts for your RV.  They are short on “frou frou” items.  To me, it’s great one stop shopping.

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We Picked up a Hitch Hiker!!

Bea’s Cafe, Conway NH

As we left, we asked Alison, the cashier, where we could get a good breakfast and she recommended Bea’s Cafe, Conway.  They don’t have their own website so I’m directing you to TripAdvisor.

We found Bea’s, right at the second light north of Camping World and had a great breakfast.  I had Irish Eggs Benedict with hash browns, Ellen had one slice of French toast, eggs over easy and bacon.   It was great.  Bea’s does not accept credit cards!  They’re a cash only establishment.

Maine, Bridgton, Portland, the Elks Lodge

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We discussed where we should go next, knowing that we’ll have to be in Scarborough at 10 AM on Wednesday.  We chose to drive to Portland and stay overnight close by.  That way we can explore Portland and Scarborough on Tuesday before our appointment at Prime Mercedes.  We took SR 113 to SR 302 and into Portland.   SR 113 in New Hampshire had a number of single lane work zones complete with flag men.  Where the road had been paved, it was superb.  Then a bit later the new road ended and the old, “in need of repair” road appeared.  It was no fun to drive.  We kidded about it having a high crown, or very low shoulders, with pot-holes, bumps,, and divots.  That didn’t last long. When we crossed into Maine, the road improved dramatically.

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Bridgton Maine

 

Maine Ponds and Lakes

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The ponds and lakes that SR 302 runs by are gorgeous and huge.  We stopped a few times to take in the view and fresh crisp (and frigid) air.  We drove through Bridgton, Maine and had to turn back and walk the town.  It is a small town.  As we walked onto the main street (302 runs right through the town), we met a police officer and started a conversation with him about Bridgton.  He had been on the job in Bridgton for 3 months.  He explained where the interesting shops were, pointed out the theater and pub, which were closed, and walked with us for a while.  He said like most of the people who lived in Bridgton, he was a Massachusetts transplant.  He wore two stars on his epaulets. I didn’t ask his rank, but I’ll look it up.

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As we approached Portland, Ellen started looking for campgrounds.  Every one close to Portland closed by Oct. 15th, some as early as September.  Looking south, she saw more campgrounds around Old Orchard Beach and we headed south. Again, almost all the campgrounds showed they closed mid October.  A phone call verified that they were closed.  We turned into a Cabela’s parking lot to review our options.  We had just stopped when a couple drove up.  A fellow got out and got Ellen’s attention.  The fellow said he was very interested in our RV and wanted to know how we liked it.  Ellen dropped into “Winnebago Saleswoman” and showed off Li’l Beast.  We both enjoy talking up the advantages of our 24 foot RV and its layout.

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Late Season Campgrounds

But two campgrounds were listed as closing at the end of October, one a KOA had good reviews and was “expensive”, the other an independent had poor reviews and was moderately expensive.  Ellen called the KOA; no answer.  We arrived to find “Closed for the Season” signs posted.  OK, we backtracked to the not-so-good campground.  I turned off the highway and found a cement bridge over a creek confronting me.  The bridge did not look secure to me and I backed away.  We chose to walk up to where we thought the campground was, past a home on the left.  As we headed up the road, a woman walked down to us.

We asked her if there was a campground up the road.  “Yes”, she said, and asked, “What are you driving”.  We explained that we wanted an electric hookup and water if it was available. She said they had a water line in the men’s bathroom burst yesterday.  That she was not sure what would be available.  “Would you have an electric hookup?”, I asked.  She said, “No.”  Then while we stared blankly at each other, she said, “In fact, I’d rather not rent to you.” Truth is she felt uncomfortable as she preferred not to have anyone on campgrounds due to uncertainty of freezing temperatures.   We were thinking the same thing and said,”That’s OK, we understand, No Problem”, turned around, and left.

Our last solid campground disappeared in a puff of “we don’t want you”.  Normally, I’d be insulted by a statement like that.  In this case, I was happy she felt that way.  There was one last possibility.  Ellen had seen and Elk Lodge in the outskirts of Portland that listed electric hookups!  We were not sure what we’d find, but off we went.  About a mile up the road we saw a sign for Walmart.  We stopped to ask if OK to park there and apparently not a problem as we noticed a couple of RVs and Trucks parked in the back of the lot.  Now we had another backup if the Elk’s Lodge fizzled.

Elks Lodge Portland Maine

About seven miles later, I drove past the Elk’s Lodge, U-turned (a recurring theme), and we drove in.  There are two parking lots one to the right of the lodge, the other to the left.  There was nothing for us in the right lot, but there are 30 amp services in the lot to the left and they are live!

We have eaten a crock pot dinner and had a piece one of two slices of apple pie we bought in Bridgton.  The pie was very good.  Both our antennas are live.  We listened to The Voice, and are now watching Castle.

Beth’s Kitchen Cafe, Bridgton Maine

The pies at Beth’s Kitchen are very good.  They’re not super sweet and have no gelatin in the filling.  The art gallery, Gallery 302,  featured painted wood sculptures that look life like and nothing like wood.  I thought they were cast or carved stone.  Various outdoor shops (REI, EMS, etc.) commission the artist for pieces for their stores.  We spoke some with the gal at the counter.  First about the cold and rain and snow.  That led to talk of Mt. Washington being covered in snow this morning.  She asked if we hiked to the top! She took her parents hiking on a ridge near Conway this past weekend with views of Mt Washington.

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Ellen here; We bought the apple pie at Beth’s Kitchen Cafe in Bridgton, which is a small cozy place especially with the sun streaming threw the windows. This is a casual breakfast and lunch scene. They make numerous baked goods including  savory quiche and meat pies. I I also noticed a chocolate cheesecake with chocolate strawberry and pumpkin marscapone cannoli.  dessert. Luckily I was able to resist.

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Ron asked if they had a cherry pie, they did not, but we could order one for the next day. So if you are planning on driving through Bridgton and thinking cherry pie or other favorite, call for special order….

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Prior to stopping at the cafe, we spent some time next door at an art gallery. Gallery 302, an Artists Cooperative features the works of 60 or so locals artists. Much of the works are inspired by the gorgeous lakes area, landscapes and wildlife of Maine.

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Gallery 302, Bridgton Maine

 

 

North Conway, Eastern Slope Camping, Winegard Travler Antenna

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Lincoln/Woodstock KOA

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At the KOA

Kancamagus Highway

We left the Lincoln/Woodstock KOA close to checkout time.  The crew was busy cleaning and closing the campground. Luckily, We have been able to find open campsites as we travel the White Mountains.  We drove north on I-93 for a few miles before turning east on SR 112,, the Kancamagus Highway. One of the most scenic highways in New Hampshire is the Kancamagus Highway, SR 112.  It rises over a high ridge in the White Mountains and drops back to follow the Swift River into Conway.  The Beast handled the climb to the ridge easily.   Air temperature was at freezing and dropped steadily as we climbed to the pass. There was frost and ice near the top along with wet patches from salt melted ice. Controlling speed on the down grade to the river was more problematic.  The grade descending was not so bad; a low gear kept The Beast’s speed slow for the most part. Just running in a low gear at 35 mph was not always sufficient.  I prefer to brake as little as possible on downgrades to avoid over heating and either warping or burning the brakes out.   The views from the ridge and at scenic overlooks are not to be missed.   We missed some of them, the turnouts were iced over.  The road had been salted, but not the turn-outs at elevation.  We chose not to risk it.  Back at lower elevation (and higher temperatures) we stopped at scenic pullouts.  The highway is not as winding as some of the other roads we’ve driven.  In fact it is pretty mellow with easy sweeping turns until it runs along the river and even then it’s a fun, non-taxing drive.

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The drive along the Kancamagus Highway is a  beautiful as the guide books say.  We would have stopped frequently but for the cold weather and a desire to reach North Conway before the JETS football game at 1 pm EST.

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We did stop at a scenic turnout close to Conway.

Conway NH

There are two covered bridges in Conway New Hampshire.  We thought we had passed the first one as we drove into Conway to take SR 16 north. Following the Rand McNally GPS a bit too closely, I turned early onto Washington street about 200 feet ahead of the SR16 turnoff.  No problem, I thought as I negotiated a right turn, I’ll just continue up this road, go over that covered bridge ahead with a load limit of OOPS.  The load limit was 3 tons.  The Beast weights almost 6 tons.  That’s not going to work.  I had to make a U-turn on Washington street ahead of the bridge.  Oncoming traffic was understanding and the U-turn was no big deal.  I turned into a parking lot across the street and behind me to get a closer look at the bridge.

After taking some photos we continued back and up SR 16 to North Conway.  Conway is a small sleepy town.  North Conway is closer to winter skiing and the Saco river for summer water sports.  It is a bustling town.  There’s also a Central Conway where you’ll find Camping World and  Hills RV, a Winnebago dealer.

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The 1890 Saco River Bridge, Conway New Hampshire

Driving into N. Conway going north on SR 16 you find an increasing number of small business that give way to small and mid sized strip malls that mark the commercial heart of N. Conway.  Going further you approach the old city center with its small shops.  This is the touristy part of N. Conway.  We drove through town for a “look-see”, turned about, and headed out to a Walmart where we could watch a football match with a clear view to the south and no interruptions.  With the antenna deployed and the heater running, we watched the Jets beat the Red Skins.  They would have demolished the Red Skins but for a number of JETS turn-overs.

Eastern Slope Campground

During commercials Ellen called local campgrounds listed as open through October.  Most were closed but Eastern Slope Camping was open.  We made a reservation and drove over after the game.  It was 5 pm when we pulled up to the office.  We stayed at Eastern Slope Campground that night.  Mike at the desk and Paul the owner were extremely talkative and informative.  We were looking to have Li’l Beast serviced in the next few hundred miles.  They suggested Hills RV in North Conway.  They are very close by, but closed on Sunday.  We’d call the next day.

We asked for an open campsite for better satellite reception and they gave us site 95 right in the center of the three rows of full hookups in an open clearing.  The other sites, around the clearing are in the trees.  Beautiful, but with the temperature dipping below freezing, having sunlight in the morning is welcome in addition to good sat reception.

We talked about the local economy, running a campground, how their campground floods every spring, “Look around and you’ll see that one bathroom building was built on stilts, all the electric  is built at least four feet above the ground.”  The campground is build in a meander of the Saco River.  Fully two thirds of the campground floods in the spring.  Evidence abounds: the picnic tables are chained down, the electric service boxes are elevated, and the men’s and woman’s restroom building is built on stilts.
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Parked at

We drove back to North Conway to get Diesel and a jacket for Ellen.  The zipper on the one she has is failing and the jacket is old.

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Walt, Plymouth NH, 27 degrees

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Walt lives in Lebanon NH, very close to our campsite yesterday.  We thought we’d meet at Meredith NH, on Lake Winnipesaukee, but chose to meet at Plymouth, NH.   We broke camp, chatted with Carl and Olivia, filled our propane tank, and headed to Plymouth.  Our propane tank measured 1/4 full, but only took a bit over 5 gallons of propane.  We have a 13 gallon propane tank, so says the view specifications.  Why it registers 1/4 full when we have more than half left is a puzzle.  Either our tank is less than 13 gal. or we can run the tank down to an empty reading and still have 1/4 tank left.  Then again, there are any number of other things that can be at play.  The View does not have through-tank sensors, but they are mounted on the side of the tank and may not be super accurate.

We arrived in Plymouth rather quickly.  It was down-hill and a short 22 mile drive.  As usual, we drove through the town looking for likely places to park, U-turned, and parked in the RR-station parking lot.  There’s lots of level parking there.

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While we we parking, we notice an odd thing.  There were a number of older fellows milling about the tracks holding cameras at the ready.  A short time later a train pulled into the closed station!  There were four passenger cars with a pusher engine.  We joined the photographic frenzy.  I actually thought for a moment that Bernie Sanders might disembark!
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The engine uncoupled, pulled around the cars, and re-coupled at the other end. Then some of the spectators headed to the cars and boarded.  The coach captain walked over and invited us all aboard.  Ellen hopped out of Li’l Beast and followed the captain back to the car and hopped aboard.  He said that an engineering society had preserved the train as it would have been in its heyday.  One car was setup as a private car.  A wealthy individual would have owned or rented such a car. The other cars were setup as a lounge with plush overstuffed chairs and a grand piano.

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As Ellen went aboard she said she was not a member of the engineering society.  The captain said, “But I’m sure you have engineered your live quite well. Welcome aboard!”.

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Later Ellen learned that it was the Plymouth historical society that preserved the train.  It runs between Plymouth and Lincoln and Meredith now and then; junkets for members and dignitaries.

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We continued on to main street and recognized Walt walking toward us a few blocks later.  We grabbed a cup of coffee, then walked to “The Common Man Inn and Spa”.   Walt had left his jacket in his truck and went back to get it.  Ellen and I waited outside a head shop that was warm and pretty busy.  It’s located near the college.  We waited and waited, no Walt.  Still waiting, up drove a blue truck with Walt at the wheel.  “The hotel is over a mile away, I thought we should drive”, said he.  We piled in and were; off to the inn.

The Common Man Inn and Spa is another not to be missed “landmark”.  It is an old wood working building converted and expanded into an inn.  The entry opens into the gift shop.  We walked to the counter to ask where the restaurant is and before we could get a word out, the woman at the counter asked, “Are you with the wedding?  The shuttle is here.”  We joked with her with a “Yes, if they’ll have us.”  Then asked for the restaurant.

The bar/restaurant is three stories and has a herb garden and outside seating on a lawn on the third floor roof!  The huge boiler that was used to burn discarded remnants now is a wine cellar and seating for 12 diners at a long table.  The Inn is open year round.  We had drinks, and great conversation over a relatively uninteresting lunch, then decamped to the fireplace in the souvenir/gift shop.  As we were talking, the wedding party returned to warm themselves.  The bride and groom took front and center in front of the fireplace.  We chose to leave them to themselves and  walked away.

The Common Man Inn and Spa

The day went too quickly.  Back at home, Walt thought The Beast was a perfect size for us.  We spend a bit more time getting warm before Walt left to go back home, Lebanon.  We had such a good time with Walt, we forget to take any photos of the three of us or of the inn!  Thanks Walt for a great (if short) visit.  You’re always welcome, come visit in California some time.

We drove back toward Lincoln, found that the KOA, Woodstock was open and camped there for the night.  Again,, they closed the next day.  This is the fourth time we have closed a campground.

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This morning, Sunday 10/18/2015, It was 27 degrees.  Our water hose was partially frozen and water pressure was zip.  Tomorrow it will be colder and I’ll disconnect our hose.  I can’t wait for Indian summer!

The Flume, Franconia Notch, New Hampshire

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Today was another, simply amazing day (10/16/15)

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the Flume, F

It was raining this morning.  It was a light rain, more a drizzle, but it was wet, cold, and overcast. Perfect weather for photography and hiking?  No.  Still, we drove north from Country Bumpkins Campground toward Franconia to check the area out and drive through some of the local towns.  Going north we saw the turn-out for The Flume ahead and I turned in.  I remember visiting this landmark with mom and dad when I was barely a teenager.  I figured we could visit the information center, get some info, and continue north.

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The information center has changed!  Not only is it the entry to the state park, but it has a souvenir shop AND a restaurant!  It is much more developed than I remember fifty years ago.  It was still raining and/or spitting when we entered the information center.  We looked around some then went to the information desk.  Ellen asked a disarming question, not your typical how long how far sort of thing, and we immediately had rapport.  Ellen asked about tomorrow’s weather and it did not look good.  Today was the better day to walk The Flume.

We went back to The Beast and changed for rain.  While we were changing, the sun popped out from behind a cloud.  Great! We headed in to buy tickets.  We delayed taking photos out front and delayed sufficiently for a bus load of “tourists” to head in behind us.  Now don’t get me wrong, we are all “tourists”, it’s just that I hate being trapped in a sea of people disgorged from a bus.  There can be fifty or a hundred people milling about.  It makes photography challenging.

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After we got our tickets we filed to the entrance to the 2 mile walk along with the bus load just as a torrent of rain fell.  The bus load waited under the eves, we pushed past as the rain diminished and started our walk.

If you are visiting the Franconia Notch area, visit The Flume.  It is exhilarating to be out doors and walking.  If you enjoy photography, the contract between shadow and sunlight makes for challenging photography, and the flume is an amazing geological formation.

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We dawdled at the first covered bridge long enough for “the hoard” to catch up.  We continued to dawdle and never saw them again.  The two mile walk typically takes an hour.  It took us 2 1/2-3 hours as we enjoyed our walk through forest then along a gorge and by a waterfall.  About half way through our walk the rain subsided and the sun poked through the clouds.   What joy! We took our time meandering through the park and soaking in the streaming sunshine.

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We were told it would take about an hour to walk the Flume.  It took us a bit over four hours.  We walked, talked, explored Ellen’s camera features, and had a blast.  It was past four pm when we arrived at the gift shop/restaurant for a hot dog.  They were just ok.  The ones at the cog railway are much better.  We stopped by the gift shop and saw the same balsam sachets that were available at the top of Mt Washington.  I considered getting one there, but the price was pretty high.  On the way down the cog, I regretted my decision.  The scent of balsam is so Christmasie. There they were and we took one away with us.  It sits beside me now filling The Beast with the scent of fall and Christmas.  It is wonderful.DSC06523

As we were walking out we met Carl and Olivia coming in.  They’re the Surrey couple we had met at Country Bumpkins.  They went to Echo Lake before heading here.  I asked if there was an echo and Carl admitted they didn’t want to make a spectacle of themselves and had not tried.

We went looking for the towns of Franconia, Lincoln, and Woodstock.  Though the towns were founded in the 1700’s, none are particularly memorable.  There is an Iron works in Franconia that is noteworthy, though the town lacks the charm of Littleton or the industry of St Johnsburg. We went back to our campsite at Country Bumpkins.

Country Bumpkin Campground

I highly recommend stopping at Country Bumpkins if you are looking for a campsite in Lincoln New Hampshire.  This is our second evening here.  We changed sites as the one we were at is reserved for this evening.  At our new site, we have a good view to the south for sat reception, but the electric box and the water spigot are about thirty five feet apart!  We have the hose and electric cable to make this happen.  Still it is a strange setup.  After connecting and checking level, I fired up the Winegard Sat Antenna.  IT buzzed and whirred for a very long time before settling on the satellites.  OK.  The DirecTV receiver saw a problem connecting to the antenna. There was a small tree directly in the path the antenna had selected for sat reception.  No Problem.  I’ll just pull back about a foot and that should move the tree out of the way.  Trouble is, we had very little slack in the water hose.  Backing up a foot is possible, but not two feet.   With Ellen’s help, we backed up a foot and sat reception is all good.

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This evening we  took  long showers, luxurious shower at the campsite.  There are only four showers, 2 men’s and 2 women’s.  They have those old dorm shower heads that are usually not so good, but with the water pressure they have, it was great.  Also their internet access is quite fast.  At other campsites I’ve seen transfer rates as low as 180 Kbps.  At Country Bumpkin bursts of 2.4 Mbps are not unusual.

Tomorrow we may head off on a side-trip to meet with Walt.  Walt lives in Lebanon NH.  We’ll chose someplace roughly mid-way and spend a day before heading east to Conway NH.  We have a rendezvous with a zip line on the way.

If I have not mentioned it before, Ellen is getting to know her new camera.  At least half of the photos posted on our blog since we left for New England are her’s.  I’m encouraging her to use manual to learn how to handle difficult light situations where auto just cannot cut-it.  Her camera has so many modes and options that it will take some time to be comfortable with all its features.

 

The Cog Railroad, Mt Washington, New Hampshire

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The Cog Railroad on a Clear Day

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If you are in the Mt Washington State Park in New Hampshire, you would do well to take a ride on the Cog Railway to the top of Mt Washington.  Do this on a clear day, and you will be rewarded with some of the most magnificent vistas east of the Mississippi.  Be warned Mt Washington creates its own weather.  It may be warm at the base station and it could be snowing on top.  Today it was 54 degrees in the sun at base and with wind chill, -11 degrees at the top!

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The Cog Steam Engine Returns from the Top of Mt Washington

Each day one steam driven train sets out at 9:15 am.  The remaining trains are all bio-diesel. The steam train was booked for today, 10/15.   We figured the other trains couldn’t be booked, it was after Columbus Day after all.  We left at a comfortable time this morning, around 9:30, which is early for us.

Ammonoosuc Camground

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We drove the 12 miles from Ammonoosuc Campgrounds to the cog base station.  The base station road runs east from 302.  We had been warned that some GPS units will route you to the wrong side of Mt Washington!  We saw practically no other vehicle on our drive to the station.  Parking was easy, though I was surprised at the number of cars.  We parked in the third lot down from upper parking!  At the ticket office we were told, “I can get you on the 2:30 train.”  ???  It was 10:10 am.  The Cog Railway was BUSY!  The gal said, “Oh wait, I can get you two on the 12:30, be at platform A at 12:00”.   Now I would recommend ordering tickets ahead of time on-line.  The Cog Railway:  more information

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The Original Steam Engine

Two hours can make a huge difference.  At 10 am the skies were clear, it was cold in the shade with a bit of a breeze at the base.   The weather in the presidential range is notorious, it can change drastically in a few hours.  The world recorded wind speed of 253 MPH was set in 2010 on the top of Mt Washington.  The mountain creates its own weather.

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Climbing Mt Washington, the Presidential Range New Hampshire

Mt Washington’s cog railway is the first one built in the world. It runs from the base at 2100 feet to the top at 6288 feet.  It has an average grade of 25% with a maximum of 37.4%.  It was first operational in 1868 and has been in constant operation since, but with regularly upgraded equipment.    still more information

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Looking Back

 

We explored the train station, walked around outside, and had lunch at the restaurant.  In the museum we saw a very interesting video loop describing the history of the railway and the technology.  Delayed, we were far back in the embarkation line and sat toward the back of the single car.  There are no bad seats, though the seats at the front of the car both ascending and descending are the best.  The car brakeman, Andrew, regaled us with stories and jokes about the railway, the car’s design, the tracks, and sights we passed.  He mentioned that New Hampshire’s famous “the Old Man in the Mountain”  collapsed.  His name was changed to “Cliff”.   see this composite image

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The ride to the top goes quickly. It does not feel like an hour ride.  About half way up the tracks double up and up and down bound trains pass each other.   The air temperature grows much colder nearer the top and the wind picks up on the ridge.

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When we left the base it was 54 degrees.  At the top the temp was -11 with wind chill.  It was cold.   The warming hut I thought I remembered from 40 years ago, is no more.  Perhaps I’m remembering the Tip Top Hut.  Today there is a large warm building that houses a restaurant, a gift shop, and a hiker’s information desk.  We headed inside right away waiting for the crowd outside to disperse; some boarding the trains back down the mountain, others milling about until the cold got the better of them.  In a short time we went back outside to explore in relative peace.

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We saw a glider decouple from its plane and soar below us.  We marveled at the vista of fall colors.  The trees to the north were past peak while the trees to the south looked to be peaking.  There was significantly more red color to the south.

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The Tip Top House

 

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Inside the Tip Top House

 

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We were freezing.  We popped into a small hut to warm up and found ourselves in a small souvenir nut.  The scent of pine filled the hut.  Ellen found a sweat shirt she liked and I came very close to buying a balsam pillow.  Once we warmed up, we headed back to the main building for cocoa and apple cider.  The hiker’s desk was not busy.  I asked about Tuckerman’s Ravine and we were off.  Kevin and I discussed Tuckerman’s, skiing Mt Washington, the east coast, Tahoe, new skis designs, snow quality.  We had a great time until we noticed the queue for the train down the mountain.  This time we were at the end of the line and were separated on the ride down.  It was no problem, Ellen sat behind me and often warmed my ears.  There really is no bad seat on the car.  The views on the way down were stellar.  The skies were clear, though we had seen clouds blowing past the mountain top.

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Descending, can you find Ellen?

We thawed out at the bottom, both agreeing that this day was “awesome”.  Remembering the chili the restaurant served for lunch, we visited the base station restaurant to find gaping holes in the counter where the soup and chili pots had been.  No Problem, the counter guy said, we have lots.  We bought two pints to heat for dinner later.  Next, in the gift shop I mentioned in an off hand way that I’d like to see a moose in the flesh.  A local standing beside me told me where I might find some Moose, their habits, and Ellen mentioned the declining moose population caused by ticks.  We were off on a wide ranging discussion about: climate change, life style, ticks (his dog never had an issue with ticks until three years ago, now he sees deer ticks all the time, some moose have over a thousand ticks on them and they’re anemic) and population growth as the cause of “it all”.  People have the time to stop and engage in conversation here.  Is it just New York and New England?  I’ll pay closer attention as we work our way back west in four or six weeks.

We headed toward Franconia Notch thinking we could get south of the notch and setup camp before nightfall.   On the way we stopped at a road-side outlook.

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There are a number of campsites in and around the notch and more than a few to the north and south.  We settled on “Country Bumpkins” in Lincoln.  They are open through the end of October (the owner said; not really, they close next week).  They have a variety of options for hookups from full to electric only, they have WiFi, and cable.

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Setting up camp is usually as simple as pushing an electric plug into a socket, screwing a water filter into a spigot, quick-connecting our water hose to the filter and to the RV, and pushing out the slide-out.  In warmer weather we might pull out an outdoor mat, chairs, and a BBQ and unfurl the awning, but when it’s cold less is more.  In the cold we are quickly mobile; breaking camp can be done in a flash.

As usual, we drove past the campsite, turned around, and checked in.  There was a couple from England ahead of us.  Carl and his GF flew from Surrey to Boston and rented an RV for two weeks to tour New Hampshire and Massachusetts.   We had a good time talking about our trips, his work (an architect), and the future.  Carl was fascinated to think that he could just drop everything and be an RV nomad full time.  He’s been bitten by the romance of the open road and the beauty of New England in the fall.

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We’re now snug in The Beast, the heater is workin’ away,

 

Up the next morning to the patter of light rain.  It’s overcast but not raining now.  We’ll stay another day at Country Bumpkin Campground.  The site we were at last night, #38, is taken tonight.  Amy wrote out a list of available sites, we walked the campground and chose #26.  26 has a clear view to the south.

Amy is a warm caring woman.  She’s fun and it is easy to while away half an hour simply chatting with her.  Amy’s warmth extends to the campground.  It is nestled in a small wooded valley with a creek flowing through the campground that flows into a river.  They have Country Bumpkin photo walls.  You know the type, a painting of two or three people with oval head cut-outs.  You put your head in the oval and you’ve got your very own country bumpkin photo.  The campground office closes at 9 pm; quite late for an RV campground. The campground is closing for the year this Sunday, 10/18, with no overnight camping on Sunday.  Campground availability is closing down.

Amy said she and her family stay year-round.  She starts taking reservations for 2016 in January.

Today we’ll visit the towns of Franconia, Lincoln and Woodstock, maybe take the walk to The Flume weather permitting.

 

A Short Day Today

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Crazy Horse Campground, New Hampshire

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We left Crazy Horse Campground shortly before noon.   Our goal was to visit Pondicherry Wildlife Preserve after visiting Littleton.  Anyone from the western U.S. will find distances in northern New Hampshire “different”.  While New York is a large state, Vermont, New Hampshire, Massachusetts, Connecticut, and Rhode Island are small.  Towns are remarkably close together.  The drive from Crazy Horse Campground to Littleton was ten miles!

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the Town of Littleton, New Hamshire

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Littleton is a quaint New Hampshire town on the Ammonoosuc River.  It has a bustling but small downtown on SR 116 and a few businesses right on the river on Mill Street.  No surprise, historically there was a mill on the river.  In fact the Miller’s Cafe and Bakery is located at the old mill.  The food here is very good, though it can be busy with the staff scurrying to get orders out.  When we ate here, it was blustery, cool, and raining off-and -on.  We avoided the deck.

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Covered Bridge, Littleton

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There are three bridges over the river:  the bland one that SR 116 runs over, a pedestrian covered bridge that runs up to Miller’s Cafe, and a pedestrian suspension bridge a bit further upstream that can be seen from the covered bridge.

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The town has a number of restaurants, the Thayer’s Inn dating from  1843, and an excellent guitar shop.  We hoped to eat at the inn, but the kitchen was closed.  The concierge mentioned “Topic of the Town”, a family style restaurant, as a good place to eat.  Another fellow at the desk mentioned that there are three bridges over the river, one is a covered bridge and another a suspension bridge.  We would walk a loop of about a mile crossing the three bridges.  He also recommended Miller’s Cafe and Bakery. We took the second fellows advice and walked down the main street to the busy bridge that 116 runs over.

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For more information: Thayer’s Inn

 

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Betty Davis owned a home in Littleton and was often seen in town

 

On our way down main street (116), we passed “Topic of Town”.  It is a very popular restaurant with middle aged people (what I kiddingly call “the gray haired set”).   It is the kind of restaurant that drives the young, the professionals, and the hip away with bland fair.  I’m sure “Topic of the Town” is a quality restaurant.  With one glance as we walked by, we chose to move on.

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Miller’s Cafe and Bakery, Littleton New Hampshire

From the “116 bridge”, the pedestrian bridge was obvious.  As we turned down the driveway toward the bridge, a tour bus passed us headed for the bridge.  As we photographed the old mill from across the river, the bus disgorged the tourists who flooded the bridge.  We lingered taking photos from the river and the bridge and decided to try the Miller’s Cafe for lunch.  The tourists did not flood the restaurant ahead of us.  Still the staff was recovering from a rush and seemed stressed.  The pulled pork sandwich was good, Ellen’s soup was good, the quiche we took with us for dinner later was good.  All in all Miller’s Cafe is the place to have lunch if the weather cooperates and you can sit on the deck (there are two).

Pondicherry Wildlife Reserve, a bust…

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Next we set off to find the Pondicherry Wildlife Reserve.  It sits between Whitefield and Jefferson but to the south.  We drove back and forth on 116 between Whitefield and Jefferson expecting to find a road to the reserve.  There was no road, but we have gorgeous views of fall colors in all directions.  We headed south on 115A, thinking surely there would be a sign for the reserve on this road.  Seeing nothing, we asked a fellow installing siding on a farm.  He knew exactly where the reserve was, but there were no roads in!  We could go back up a dirt road and find a trail to the reserve and Cherry Lake, but that could be muddy and hard going.  We could drive down the road a bit, park on the road, and walk in along the railroad tracks.  Or we could drive further down the road, about 3 miles, turn right toward Mt Washington Airport, park there, and walk the railroad tracks to the lake.  We chose the airport, drove past it, turned around (a recurring theme), and parked.  We were looking at a two mile walk up the RR tracks.  No problem, we thought until it started to rain.  We chose common sense, not valor, and skipped Pondicherry.

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Ammonoosuc Campground, Bretton Woods NH

We drove to Ammonoosuc Campground at Bretton Woods and took site #5.  We chose Bretton Woods because it is near the access road for the Cog Railroad that runs to the top of Mt Washington.   The AllStays listing for Ammonsoosuc states that the campground is open year round.  It is, but….  The owners said that the campground is closing tomorrow until November and it closes again in March for a few weeks.  Why, you ask?  A Vermont state law requires campgrounds be closed for 6 weeks each year otherwise they are considered a mobile home park. I expect we will have some trouble finding campgrounds in the next few weeks.  There are plenty of state parks nearby, we shouldn’t have trouble finding a place for the night to boondock.

The Ammonoosuc Campground is  beautifully located in a grove of hardwoods and pines.  We walked the park and met Jim, Judy, and Gail from Massachusetts. They are seasonal, coming up in the spring and staying until the snow becomes trouble.  It was a gas talking with Jim about how Arlington and Belmont have changed in the last forty years.  When the campground shuts down, they simply turn off the water.  However, the water for the showers, the heated bathrooms, and the electricity are left on.  The owners decamp, but Jim, Judy, and Gail will stay through the shutdown using facilities and getting their own water.  May be that we can fudge our stay at other campsites in the next few weeks.  Who knows?  We’ll play it by ear.

Cog Railway, Mt Washington NH

The cog railway operates bio-diesel trains hourly on the half hour, but has one authentic steam engine that runs at 9:15 in the morning. We had hoped to take the steam engine, but it is sold out!  It’s off season, the weather should be partially sunny and cold (38 tops) and still the steam engine is sold out.  We’ll make do with the bio-diesel.

For More Information: Cog Railway

 

Smuggler’s Notch, Vermont

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What a wonderful three days.

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It started slowly, with an unfulfilled promise of good weather.  It was 35 deg last night and overcast mid-morning.  We felt no urgency in getting moving. Morning cappuccino was great, some local news featuring presidential candidates was amusing, and we finished working on our blog for the day.  We set off late as usual, thinking today would be a bust.  With overcast skies and flat light, photography was out.  We had hoped to take the gondola to the top of Mt Mansfield, but with the weather and cold we decided not to.

Morrisville, Vermont

We turned onto the business loop through Morrisville from SR 100 and just had to stop for photos.  In the hour we spend waking fields to find that “perfect shot”,  the sun started to peak out and some of the overcast burned off.  When we got back in “the Beast” it was clear, we’d continue on to the gondola for a “look see”.

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Stowe, Vermont

I forgot to take the spur that avoids “downtown” Stowe.  We wasted about twenty minutes creeping through town, and enjoying the sites, before we turned right onto SR 108 and resumed a normal clip of 40 mph.  By now the weather was warming and the sun was on and off as clouds drifted by overhead.

 

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Climbing toward the notch, we saw signs for the “Scenic Toll Road”.  We both though that would be cool and we took the turnoff to the left for the toll road.   We were greeted by a footman who explained that the road was extremely narrow and curvy and that we could not make it up the road with “this traffic”.  Not wanting to be crass nor wanting to find myself in an untenable situation, I agreed that it would be best not to take the “Scenic Route”.  We turned around (an accomplishment in itself) and continued up SR 108.

Seinic Toll Road, Smuggler’s Notchch

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Sometime later we saw gondolas running overhead and turned right toward their source.  WRONG.  We turned into the Stowe Mountain Resort, a posh inn with valet parking and their own gondola to the base of Mt Mansfield.  I wondered if anyone thought we’d valet park “the Beast”.  Again we were back on SR 108, but this time we simply drove through the circular dive.

The third time is the charm.  The next entryway to the left from Stowe Mountain Resort is the entrance to Mt Mansfield’s gondola and is the main entrance to the ski resort in-season.  The entry way faces the gondola lift to the top of the mountain.  Again we were greeted by a footman who asked if we were her for the gondola ride.  “Yes”, we answered and we were told that the gondola had failed and was not in operation.  The diesel generator was running the gondolas at slow speed to bring passengers down the mountain.  Nobody was going up.  We saw groups walking down the mountain.  Strike Two!

We made the most of it.  We walked the lower ski slopes and took some “OK” photos.

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We continued up SR 108 toward the notch.  Some time later we saw two granite cliffs facing each other.  This is “the notch”.  SR 108 runs up between these two escarpments.  A short time after we had our first dramatic view of the notch, a glaring flashing sign notified us that no trailers are allowed beyond this point.   Well, we are not a trailer so we’re good to go.  On we went.  The road continued upwards with a 40 mps speed limit, that decreased to 30, and then lower.  The road narrowed, became extremely twisty, with the added joy of parked cars lining both sides of the street, some not entirely off the street.   There were more than a few places where two cars could not pass, one had to wait for the other to go.  The Beast is narrow for an RV and could easily negotiate the road, but it was a challenge with other drivers on the road.  In two instances I near panicked as oncoming drivers apparently did not now where the side of their car was.  More than a few couples walking the roadside watched me pass with a dumbfounded look.  Ours was the only RV I saw today past the “no trailers allowed” sign.   The Smuggler’s Notch drive is not to be taken lightly.  There are more than a few places where the road is a single lane hair-pin steep up-hill 180 degree turn.   An inattentive or inadequate driver would be disastrous on this road as would an over-confident driver of an 18 wheeler.

As we approached the pass, it became clear that we would not find a place to park along the road or in the small trail head parking at the top.  We continued past the pass and down into the next valley.  The road was steep, I selected a low gear using the brakes as little as I could.  Cars backed up behind.  I selected a turnout to stop and let them by.  This was not a scenic overlook, but a small turnout.  Surprisingly, the SUV immediately behind me turned in with me.  After about a dozen cars passed by, my follower turned out too and I followed.  No less than 200 feet down the road, there was a dirt road to the right and I took it.  My thought was, maybe this road opens onto great views.  It was the entrance into parking lot 1 for the Smuggler’s Notch Ski resort.

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The parking lot was heavily rutted and slow going all the way in, but the views were spectacular. There was a standing map of ski routes ahead of us, a yurt to our right, and ski runs heading up-mountain to our right.  We disembarked and separated camera in hand.  While I was orienting myself, two woman hiked down a ski trail and into the parking lot.  We exchanged “Hi’s”, and talked about hiking up-mountain.  I had not gone far from Li’l Beast and one of the woman noticed our CA license plates and putting it together asked, “Are you from California?” That started another conversation about how beautiful Vermont is and what California is like.  With their encouragement, Ellen and I headed up the ski trails in search of dramatic views.  There were many.

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It was late and we allowed ourselves 30 minutes to hike up-hill before turning back.  The slope we walked was heavy with moisture.  There were running streams and mud in some areas, firm ground in others.  It was steep and slow going, but rewarding.  I can only imagine what skiing would be like on these slopes.  With the densely packed trees, tree-skiing would be out of the question here.  It is amazing how slow we walk and how fast we can ski downhill.  We returned to the Beast comfortably exhausted and happy to have left the crowds and found a peaceful retreat of our own.

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I considered driving further down to the valley and trying to find a way to Morristown, but Ellen had talked to a woman in the parking lot who said there was no quick way around the mountains to get back to Morristown.  The best way was back through the notch!  Back through the notch we went.  Traffic was less severe, though there were a few cars parked half way off the road making progress challenging.  On one hair-pin turn I had to stop and wait for a long string of cars and motorcycles to pass before the path around the rocky outcropping was safe to turn past.  A low gear by itself was insufficient, I had to brake repeatedly to be safe on the descent trading off brake wear and heat with engine braking when I could.   It was fun for me and other drivers were not a problem in this direction.

 

We returned to the valley hungry.  Should we head back to the Mountain View Campground and cook, or find something to eat “in town”.  In town won out.  I remembered the woman at the campground’s desk had recommended McCarthy’s Restaurant and remembered driving past it on the way out.  Off we went to find that the restaurant is open from 6:30 Am to 2:00 Pm serving breakfast and lunch only.  That didn’t work.  We discussed what we would like to eat and kept coming back to sushi or Thai.  The nearest Thai restaurant is in Montpelier, not happening.   We remembered passing Sushi Yoshi on the way out and back.  It was a sushi and Chinese restaurant, a strange mix.  I thought we’d be risking it, going for sushi in Vermont, but we did.

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We chose to sit at the sushi bar, we were the only ones at the bar.  Talking with the sushi chefs, I tried to order Hamachi Sashimi, but they looked dumbly at me.  Yellow Tail sashimi they understood and we settled on two orders of  Hamachi, two spicy tuna rolls, a lobster roll, a unagi hand roll for Ellen, and avocado salad.  All were amazing and some of the best sushi I’ve had.  The lobster roll was very good, though the delicate flavor of the lobster got lost in the other flavors.  There are six reviews for Sushi Yoshi online, some of them two star.   My experience was so different that I wonder what the “two star” people ordered.   The sushi and sashimi were fresh, excellently prepared, and scrumptious (if you like sushi).

Sushi Yoshi’s Website

Again we returned to Mountain View Campground well after sunset.  It’s no problem setting up the water and electric connections.  Tonight we’ll forego the sewer line.  We setup, hoisted the Winegard antenna, turned on the local HD antenna, downloaded our video and photos, and settled in.  I played guitar for a while as Ellen looked over today’s photos.  Then as I looked over mine,  Ellen grabbed my throw while watching a TV show, leaving me with a crummy blanket.  We have been looking for comfortable throws that don’t shed lint or fabric for a while now.  I found one I liked last week; Ellen is still looking.  It was surprising to see Ellen wrapped in MY throw.  Bummer, but I’m happy she’s happy.  We’ll have to find a throw for her, and soon.

Tonight we watched the season opener of “the Good Wife” in off-air HD, and now “Homeland” on direcTv.

Stowe Vermont, Fall Foliage, Mountain View Campgound.

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Stowe Vermont
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The Beast & Dirt Roads

Our campsite is available for another two nights and we’re staying.   It was cold this morning.  The day was nearly schizophrenic; it was comfortably warm in the sun and downright cold in the shade.  We met our neighbor, Jean Franscios, who is an IT guy working for a tech company in Montreal.  We chatted with Jean some then headed off to Stowe.

Mountain View Campground, Stowe Vermont

The campsites at Mountain View Campground are nothing special. They are flat with full hookups and a clear view to the south for Sat TV, but they provide little privacy, the bathroom heat is inadequate to the task, there is hot water though I did not use their shower after seeing how water pressure dropped in the morning.   The main reason we’re staying is its proximity to Stowe and the surrounding area.

The folks running the campsite are very nice and always available, if needed.

Today we explored side roads north of Stowe.  We were surprised when the paved road became dirt, but we drove on.  We avoided a dirt road named “Mud City Loop” and turned back when the two lane dirt road we were on funneled into a single nasty looking lane.  The roads wound through pastures and farm land between colorful rolling hills.   Northern New York and Vermont have an idyllic feel to them in the fall.

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Dave had mentioned that “the Mountain Road” was the place to find a restaurant for lunch or dinner.   The Mountain Road is the local name for state route 108.  After our tour north of Stowe, we drove to the town of Stowe.  Three main roads lead into Stowe; 100 North, 100 South, and 108.  All three were bumper-to-bumper with slow moving traffic.  It’s Columbus Day Weekend and an Arts and Craft Fair drew a crowd.  We looked for likely places to park “the Beast” as we crept through town then drove out on 108.  We found a small parking lot on the north side of 108 just out of town and parked easily.  This is a great place to park an RV.  The walk back to Stowe’s town center is short and there’s enough room for a forty footer or two.  We had lunch at Rimrock’s Mountain Tavern.  Ellen had the New England Clam Chowder and an Apple and walnut salad.  I had a Chicken Caesar Wrap with Cajun fries.  All the food was great.  The Cajun fries were very spicy.

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Off the Beaten Path

Central Stowe is quintessential Vermont.  it is a very small and easily walkable. The homes around the town are set on acres of land, some set into trees in the rolling hills, others on pastures in the valleys.  It would be a tranquil place without the hoards that descend on the weekends.  Distances in Vermont, New Hampshire and Massachusetts are short.  It is not unusual for families to drive from Boston to summer homes in Vermont every weekend.  Stowe has grown over the years as tourist impact on the town has grown.  There are now numerous restaurants serving weekenders.  I hope to talk to a few old-time residents and ask how changes in the town have changed their lives if at all.  Does the influx of money, economic growth, and higher real estate prices benefit them?  Is the traffic congestion “downtown” drive them crazy?  Do they live far enough from downtown that weekend madness is not an issue?  Lots to consider.

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I like Stowe.  There’s a home on the market that could easily be converted to a B&B.   I would never run a B&B myself.  I have no problem considering setting up a B&B as a business; hiring managers/caretakers, setting up reservation systems online, budgeting income and expenses. That could be fun.  I took a photo of the property on an iPhone, posted below (sorry about the reflection in the glass window).

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Potential B&B?

It is now the next morning, 10/11.  Yesterday was a short day; we left our campsite late and returned late.  We missed sunset while getting diesel and restoring our supplies.  Luckily it is very easy to setup and tear down “camp”.  Often we just connect or disconnect a hose and electric cable, then run down our “pre-flight” check-list.  I always take a walk-around to be sure we’re good to go before starting the engine.   We’re starting that process now with plans to visit the gondola to the top of Mansfield Mountain and perhaps drive to Smuggler’s Notch.

Here are a few photos we took in and around Stowe yesterday.

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Off the Main Road, Stowe Vermont

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Burlington & Stowe Vermont

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Mountain View Campground, Vermont

We slept well last night with the heater off. It was quiet and cold outside.  We were snug inside. Yesterday evening, we drove through the town of Stowe and through Morrisville to Mountain View Campground where Allison and a blazing fire welcomed us.   Ellen had called ahead and reserved one of the two remaining sites.  We are in space “B”.   Water pressure this morning was low.  I went outside to check on our connection and met our neighbor, Jean Pierre, who asked, “Is your water pressure low?”  His was too and we concluded that all the campers were drawing water.   Time to use internal water and the pump.

This is Stowe Vermont and the weather is clearing!  I asked Ellen how she felt about spending another day here before pushing on.  We were both OK with it.  Cappuccino in hand, I walked to the office.   Last night I made this trip to get the codes for internet access and met Dave, the owner.  I wondered if Dave or Allison would be at the desk this morning.  Dave is a warm direct and talkative fellow with a distinct Boston accent.  Allison is more typical of a Vermonter,  mater of fact and reserved until you get talking with her.   It was Allison and the blazing fire at the desk.  She said there was a rig coming in and that site “B” was taken, but there were two sites that could go empty today.  The two friends had not decided if they would stay another day.  They had not made up their mind.  As we were talking, Dave walked in.  Allison explained the situation and Dave stalked out to ask if they planned to stay.   Allison and I chatted about Vermont until Dave returned to say, “they’re leaving today”.  Great, we keep site “B” and the newcomers will have one of the vacated sites.   We will stay another night, perhaps two!

We’re setting up to go back to Stowe now.   We’ll probably take the Gondola up Mt Mansfield, Vermont’s highest mountain at 4393 feet and visit a near-by covered bridge or two.  Last night Dave gave me a list of local hikes that range from easy/novice, intermediate, and expert. One of the expert hikes states flatly that the terrain is steep and wet.  It is a difficult hike up and it should NOT be  descended.

Stowe Vermont

The sky is clearing.  Today promises to be a wonderful day.  We will be walking in and around Stowe Vermont today.

North Beach Campground, Vermont

Yesterday, we were slow to leave North Beach Campground.  It was a cool morning and raining off and on. We watched the weather news over cups of coffee hoping that the cold front would pass and the sun would shine this weekend.  We left for downtown Burlington Vermont around noon and a few minutes later we were driving up Main Street.  I had no idea we had stayed so close to the town.  Main Street runs from the waterfront up a hill and crosses Church Street.  Church Street is closed to traffic.  It’s a pedestrian walkway with shops on either side of the wide street.  In warm summer weather Church Street is probably a buzz with patrons enjoying a meal on a sidewalk table.  This is what Santa Cruz Avenue, Menlo Park should become.

At the top of the hill we turned left and left again going back down the hill and into a parking lot on Lake Champlain.  We drove past the ticketing kiosk which was unattended and had our choice of parking spots.   A large tent on the parking lot housed the remnants of a maritime exhibit.  The nearby maritime building had been flooded and was closed.

We walked Main Street to Church Street.  It seemed that the lights were timed not for the cars, but for pedestrians.  Each walk light lit as we approached.  It was eery.

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Walking Main Street, Burlington Vermont

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Church Street was fun.  Burlington is a college town. While not crowded,  the street was full of people of all ages going about their day.  On a side street to our right we did a double take.  There’s a mural depicting famous and not so famous people. The mural is huge; almost an entire city block.

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The Mural’s “Legend”

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Can you find Ethan Alan, President Lincoln, Billy Kidd, Elvis, Bernie Sanders, a bust of George Armstrong Custer?  How many of these people were raised in Burlington Vermont?

 

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Church Street in the Rain, Burlington Vermont

 

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A Popular Guy in Burlington VT

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On Lake Champlain,, Burlington Vermont

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Lake Shore Burlington Vermont

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We have no idea what this guy is all about

Everyone is saying that the foliage here in Stowe is “at peak”.  It looks to me like it is a few days to a week away.  I could easily be wrong, but I think people want “peak foliage” this weekend.  It’s Columbus Day Weekend which is Canada’s equivalent of our Thanksgiving.  I’ve heard more french spoken today than I have since visiting Paris so many years ago.

Everyone is talking about how strange this fall has been.  It’s been warm (hot!) and dry which is not good for fall colors.  Last week the weather turned cold and wet.  The cold weather brings on the color.  Without moisture, the leaves turn brown and fall all at once.  The rain and cold is welcome, though 44 degrees is uncomfortable compared to 80.